2. •Nowadays top brands often select
and create the best scents on the market.
They’re classy, unmistakable and will
sweep you, or the object of your affection,
off your feet.
3.
4.
5. Perfumes are one of the most difficult
accessories to define and to pin down , the
reason being that they are such a personal
choice and have so many elusive qualities.
Even though perfumes are expensive (for both
men and women), they are well worth the money
, as they can conjure up a host of feelings and be
a pleasant experience for both the wearer
thereof, as well the people close to the person
wearing the perfume.
6. Perfume is thousands of years old
Word "perfume" comes from the Latin
per fume "through smoke".
A mixture of fragrant essential oils
and aroma compounds, fixatives, and
solvents used to give the human
body, objects, and living spaces a
pleasant smell.
7. Perfume Defined
To the ancients,
burning
perfumed
substances
meant
communicating
with lost loved
ones.
8. Perfume Defined
Because the first perfumes were aromatics
kindled/burned incense to the Gods and
Ancestors . . .
10. Perfumes: The Begining
• Earliest use of plant fragrance lost in history
• Perfume (burning plants) may have been first use
• Egyptians using scented oils at least 5000 years
ago
• Egyptian men would put solid cone of perfume on
the head, let it melt
12. The Egyptians were the first to
incorporate perfume into their culture
followed by the ancient Chinese, Hindus,
Israelites, Arabs,
Greeks, and Romans.
13. • Greeks used
various scents for
different body
parts
– mint, marjorum,
thyme, etc
• Romans scented
clothes, houses,
bedding and bath
oil, as well as
their bodies
• Japanese and
Chinese used
incense as clocks
http://www.nawcc.org/museum/nwcm/galleri
es/asian/incense.htm
14. Perfume In Arab
• Perfume use in daily life
• Muslims used amber
musk and roses
• Religious aspect
15. Perfume
• Up until then, perfumes were produced
with an oil or animal fat base and were
used as lotions and pomades.
. Venice and Florence were the capitals
of the perfumes during the
Renaissance.
• In Europe it came in the 14th century.
•
• Hungary produced the first modern
perfume in 1371.
• Modern perfumery began in the late 19th
century with the commercial synthesis of
aroma compounds such as vanillin or
coumarin
16. Today Perfume is…
Compared to other varieties of scent, PERFUMES are
longer lasting on the skin and are more more expensive
because they contain greater percentage of essential oils
17. “Perfume” is a substance that imparts a scent or
odour, including a sweet and pleasant smell.
“Fragrance” is a sweet smell emitted by a material
or object.
Both terms are synonymous and are
interchangeably used in cosmetic and perfumery
industry.
A fragrance is best described as a complex
mixture of ingredients specifically blended to
produce specific scent.
Perfumes and Fragrances
18. Today Perfume is…
Eau de Toilette contains
less than 5%
essential oil
Ethyl alcohol
Slight Water
A mixture of 22% to
33% essential oils
20. Perfume - most potent and expensive form with
25-40% of fragrance oil. Apply sparingly as its
concentration means more intensity on skin and
lasts for 9-16 hours.
Eau de Parfum - 18-25% of fragrance oil, the rest
is alcohol and water and lasts for 6-9 hours.
Eau de Toilette - lighter fragrance with 8-15%
fragrance oil and lasts for 4-6 hours.
Eau de Cologne - 5-15% of fragrance oil and
lasts 2-4 hours
21. Mist - Increasingly popular nowadays as all over
body spray with 3-7% fragrance oil and lasts for 1-2
hours. Can be applied lavishly. Storing them in the
fridge increases its cooling effect.
Splash and after Shave – 1-3% of Fragrance Oil
and lasts 30 minutes- 1 hour
22. Form
Fragrance
Concentration %
Hours to
last on skin
PERFUME 25 to 40 9 to 16
EAU DE PARFUM 15 to 25 6 to 9
EAU DE TOILETTE 8 to15 4 to 6
EAU DE COLOGNE 5 to 15 2 to 4
PERFUME MIST 3 to 7 1 to 2
SPLASH & AFTER SHAVE 1 to 3 .30 to 1
23. Top notes: The scents that are perceived
immediately on application of a perfume. Also
called the head notes.
Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that
emerges just prior to when the top notes dissipate.
They are also called the heart notes.
Base notes: The scent of a perfume that
appears close to the departure of the middle notes.
Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume.
Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich
and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30
minutes after
application.
25. Apply fragrance on the warmest areas such as
the back of the knee, crook of the elbow, neck
and decolletage(chest/breast area) as scent is
activated by body heat.
When trying out new scents, limit tests to 3 or
4 at a time. The nose gets numb with more
and you get "nose fatigue".
26. Fragrance has two enemies: light and heat
Store fragrance out of direct sunlight to maximize a
scent’s life
Stash seldom used fragrances in their boxes and in the
refrigerator.
Sprays last longer than splash bottles because our
bacteria bearing fingers never make contact with the
juice.
27. Choice of fragrances:
It is best to know the different personalities
of our fragrances and the customers
• There’s a fragrance for different occasions
• There’s a fragrance for different personalities
• Understanding the customer’s personality and
lifestyle and matching his/her needs with
what’s in the line helps encourage multiple
purchases
28. Chemical Composition of Fragrance
• The chemical responsible for the aromatic character of a fragrance
can be divided into three broad categories.
• Terpenoids: different number five carbon isoprene units including
cis and trans produce terpenoid compounds of different scent like
lemon grass, linalol etc.
• Aliphatics: straight chain organic chemicals make most of modern
fragrances, based on molecular structure they can be-
Aldehydes, Alcohols, Esters, Ketones (Lavender), Lactones
(coconut).
•Benzenoids: Fused Benzene ring, obtained during coal tar
processing, like Benzyl Acetate (Jasmine), Phenyl ehyl
alcohol/acetate (Rose), cinnamic aldehyde (Cinnamon).
30. Concretes
• Concretes are the purest of the natural
odorants. They are obtained by using a
hydrocarbon solvent to dissolve the essential
oils out of the plant.
• The solvent is then removed under vacuum
by mild heating.
• Many factors determine which method is
used. Among these are cost, quality of
essence, and use of the product.
31. Absolutes
• Absolutes are extracted from the non-volatile
materials with alcohol.
• The alcohol is removed under vacuum
• The alcohol is recovered and used in
colognes and lotions.
32. Tinctures
• Tinctures (or alcoholic extracts) are
widely used. They are cheap, but they
are sometimes contaminated with other
undesirable products as well.
33. Expressed oils
• Expression is useful for things like lemon and
lime peels.
• For most plants, the oils are contaminated
with too many other undesirable compounds
to make the method practical.
• The compounds are not changed by heat,
however, and in some instances are better
quality than steam distilled or fractionally
distilled.
34. Extenders
Some essential oils, such as rose, jasmine, or
neroli are very expensive.
When used in a blend it is important that their
fragrance is not wasted.
Natural extenders are the oils used with the most
expensive oils to make the blends affordable
while at the same time respecting the notes of
the precious oils.
41. Animal Products
• Some perfume ingredients are animal products.
For example, castor comes from beavers, musk
from male deer, and ambergris from the sperm
whale.
• Animal substances are often used as fixatives
that enable perfume to evaporate slowly and
emit odors longer.
• Alcohol and sometimes water are used to dilute
ingredients in perfumes.
42.
43. MOST COMMON CHEMICALS IN THIRTY-ONE
FRAGRANCE PRODUCTS [BASED ON A] 1991
EPA STUDY
ACETONE BENZELDEHY
DE
BENZYL
ACETATE
BENZYL
ALCOHOL
CAMPHOR
LIMONEN
E
METHYLEN
E
CHLORIDE
ETHANO
L
ETHYL
ACETAT
E
LINALOOL
a-
PINENE
g-
TERPINENE
a-
TERPINEOL
44. Perfume Theme Types
Perfumes are the first use of natural raw materials. These
sources of raw materials is very broad:
flowery
Mixed flower
Plant
Fragrance
Fruits
Oriental
Forest
51. • 400 plant and 5 animal
matters are used for
perfume making
• Then alcohol is mixed with
the oils in different ratios
Perfume Manufacturing
52.
53. • Many oils are extracted usually from plants
through the following methods:
Collection
Steam Distillation
Solvent Extraction
Effleurage
Maceration
Expression
Perfume Manufacturing
54. 1. Collection:
• Many plants are harvested, many flowers are
gathered just to obtain a few drops of the essence of
that flower
• Animal extracts are obtained directly
• Many aromatic chemicals are prepared in the
laboratory by chemists
Perfume Manufacturing
55. 2. Steam Distillation:
• Passage of steam,
produces oil gas
• The gas is then sent to
cooled tubes and is
liquefied
• A lot of flowers for a very
small amount of the oil
Perfume Manufacturing
58. 3. Solvent Extraction:
Perfume Manufacturing
Rotation of
flowers in a
container
Produces a
waxy
material
Evaporation
of alcohol
Waxy
substance
into alcohol
Addition of a
solvent
Oil of higher
concentration
61. 4. Effleurage:
• The flowers are spread over glass
sheets with grease on it
• The grease absorbs the fragrance
• Cold effleurage
• Warm effleurage
Perfume Manufacturing
62.
63. • Enfleurage is a special method for making
concretes and absolutes. The petals are
pressed onto a coating of pure lard and
changed often.
• After several days, the lard has dissolved the
released essential oils.
• The essential oils are then removed from the
lard with alcohol.
• The residual lard is pomade.
• After extraction, the lard is used to make
soaps etc.
Enfleurage
65. Perfume Manufacturing
5. Maceration:
What Is Maceration??
• A lot similar to enfleurage
• Instead it uses warm fats
dissolved in alcohol
• Very much same as the
solvent extraction also
67. 6. Expression:
• The simplest of all, used on citrus plants, their flowers and
peels
• Manual extraction
• Steel Pick Expression
• ‘Through Sponge’ Expression
Perfume Manufacturing
68. Perfume Manufacturing
7. Blending:
• Mixing of the components according to the specific
recipe
• What is a “NOSE” ??
• Difference between a:
► Perfume
► Cologne
► Eau de toilette
69. Perfume Manufacturing
8. Aging:
• The perfumes when are made they are kept for a few
years or more in the shelves
• The “nose” tests whether the perfume has the specific
smell or not
76. • Feeling of elegance comes from perfumes.
Perfumes and fragrances are used to
scent wide variety of body and bath
products such as cologne, deodorant, after
shave lotions, hair care products etc. But
do you know that these wonderful
perfumes can be dangerous for you? Here
are some side effects and problems
caused due to perfumes
77. Skin problems
Carcinogenicity
Aggravate lung disease.
Affect the brain as well
Cause instant headaches, dizziness, nausea
and mood swings.
Sinus, watery eyes, inability to focus mentally
etc.
Absorbed by the skin and introduced into the
blood stream.
78. NEUROLOGICAL DISORDERS :
• They modify brain blood flow, alter
blood pressure, pulse, and mood and
trigger migraine headaches.
• Musk ambrette, used for decades, was
found to be neurotoxic
• Several common fragrances, when
inhaled, have potent sedative effects.
• CNS disorders also include Multiple
Sclerosis, Parkinson's Disease,
Alzheimer's Disease.
79. Synthetic vs natural: what are the
issues?
• “The truth about fragrance oils”
– www.earthmamaangelbaby.com/fragrance_oils.html
– “Each essential oil comes from just one source, a
living plant. There are no chemicals involved.”
• Remember, they are all chemicals!
• We may actually know more about the synthetic
mixtures than the natural ones
80. Concerns
• Toxicity to people?
• Allergens?
• Increasing asthma incidence?
• Unknown compounds in the mix?
• Persistence in the environment?
– Example: synthetic musk
81. Synthetic musk
• May accumulate in some organisms
(e.g. mussels), prevents removal of
other toxins
82. ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS
• Fragrances are volatile compounds and are
constantly released into the air. The widespread
use and vast number of fragranced products
cause extensive indoor and outdoor pollution.
• They are persistent and accumulate in different
compartments of the environment.
83. PRECAUTIONS
• Do not use perfume oil internally
• If you have a highly sensitive skin,
please consult with a physician
before use
• Before applying any perfume or
body oils to the skin, always test a
small area of skin for any adverse
reactions.
• Use caution when using perfume
oil products that contain citrus
oils. They can irritate sensitive skin.
84. • People with high blood pressure should
avoid the more stimulating essential oils,
such as basil, rosemary and thyme.
• People with low blood pressure should
avoid the more sedating essential oils,
such as clary sage, ylang ylang and
lavender.
• People with asthma should avoid using
essential oils.
• Keep perfume oil out of the reach of
pets and children.
86. The Future
• Aromatherapy—smelling oils and fragrances to cure
physical and emotional problems—is being revived to
help balance hormonal and body energy. Smelling sweet
smells also affects one's mood and can be used as a
form of psychotherapy.
Like aromatherapy, more research is being conducted to
synthesize human perfume—that is, the body scents
we produce to attract or repel other humans. Humans,
like other mammals, release pheromones to attract the
opposite sex. New perfumes are being created to
duplicate the effect of pheromones and stimulate sexual
arousal receptors in the brain. Not only may the
perfumes of the future help people cover up "bad"
smells, they could improve their physical and emotional
well-being as well as their sex lives.
87. References
1. Harry R.G., Reiger M.M., Harry’s Cosmeticology, Chemical publishing company.
Newyork
2. Balsam M.S., Sagarin E., Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Wiley Interscience.
Newyork
3. Rao Y.M., Shayeda, Cosmeceuticals, Pharma Med Press. Hyderabad
4. Paye M., Basel A.O., Maibach H.I., Handbook of Cosmetic Science & Technology,
Informa
Healthcare. Newyork
5. Sharma P.P., Cosmetics Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality control, Vandana
Publication Pvt. Ltd. Delhi
6. Poucher W.A., Butler H., Poucher’s Perfumes, Cosmetic & Soaps, Springer India Pvt.
Ltd. New
Delhi.
7. Nanda S., Nanda A., Cosmetic Technology, Birla Publication, Delhi.
8. SCCS's Notes of Guidance for the Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients and their Safety
Evaluation, 7th Revision. European Commission.
9. Indian Pharmacopoeia 2014(7th edition), Ministry of Health and Family Welfare,
Published by
Govt. of India.
