Ch 14 Milady

1. Elements. Principles. Styling
PRINCIPLE OF HAIR
DESIGN
You can keep growing by
having your eyes and mind
always open to learning.

2. THE WHY?
• Design is the foundation of all
Artistic Applications
• When analyzing your guest using
these guidelines allows you to
enhance positive features &
minimize negative ones
• Actually understanding DESIGN
will help you develop artistic skill &
judgments needed to create the best
possible end result

3. AGENDA KEY POINTS
Tuesday- Friday
• Elements of Design
• Principles of Design
• Hair Type & Texture
• Face Shapes

4. INSPIRATION
• A good designer always envisions the end result before
beginning- an architect designs a building by first visualizing
the final product. Having a envisioned Game Plan for each
guest will set you up for success!
• Once inspired: decide which tools and techniques— such as
shears, flat irons, permanent wave, color, cut
• You can be inspired by : Movies, TV, Magazine, Social Media, the
person next you all create and draw inspiration
• Even Nature has inspired poets, artists, architects etc.
• A visual understanding of which hairstyles work best on
different face shapes and body types will take time and
experience to train your eye. You cannot achieve a trained
eye simply through book learning
• Build a strong foundation in technique and skills will allow
you to take calculated risks. Because “safe” can translate into
“dull.”

5. • Line- Straight or Curved
• Form
• Space
• Design Texture
• Hair Color
ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN

6. ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN- Line defines form and space
• LINE- Horizontal
• Creates width
• Draws eye side to side
• Maintains same direction
• Ideal for fine hair & or low density

7. • LINE- Vertical
ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN
• Creates length and or height
• Draws eye up & down
• Maintains same direction
• Ideal for coarse hair, high density, round face

8. ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN
• LINE- Diagonal
• Create emphasis/ focal point
• Draws eye to certain area of style
• Maintains same direction
• Ideal for all hair types, low & medium density
• Minimize or enhance facial shape

9. ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN
• LINE- Curved • Used to soften and or blend
• Can be full or partial circle
• Move in a circular pattern
• Opposite directions create a wave

10. ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN
• LINE- Single • LINE- Parallel

11. ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN
• LINE- Contrasting • LINE- Transitional
90

12. ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN
• FORM- Silhouette
Mass or Outline
• SPACE- How its styled/texture
How does it look from every angle

13. ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN
• DESIGN TEXTURE- Style created by Tools or Chemicals
Consider length, technique & light reflection; Smooth accentuates face, curly to camouflage or soften
BEFORE
DURING
AFTER

14. ELEMENTS OF HAIR DESIGN
• HAIRCOLOR- Dimension/ Focal point
Creates/Defines texture & lines; Ties elements together
Warm colors create volume/width & draw the eye. Cool colors recede, create depth

15. REVIEW- Tuesday
• What are the 5 elements of Hair Design?
• Which line creates width?
• Which line creates a focal point?
• What is an example of parallel lines?
• What is the difference between contrasting
and curved?
• What is the difference between Design
Texture by tools VS Chemicals?
• How can Hair color effect the over all
Design?
• What is the difference between Form and
Space?

16. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN
• Proportion
• Balance
• Rhythm
• Emphasis
• Harmony

17. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN
• PROPORTION- Hair relative to body/
Enhance not overwhelm
Hair should not be wider then center of shoulders

18. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN
• BALANCE- Creates Symmetry; Section face into 4
Symmetrical and Asymmetrical

19. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN
• RHYTHM- Movement of the hair
Can be either Fast or Slow

20. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN
• EMPAHSIS- Focal points ( what your eye sees first)
Can have multiple focal points but try not to be too busy
Change in form-
outline/silhouette
Color
Wave Patterns/Movement Ornamentation

21. PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN
• HARMONY- Consider shape of head, profile, face shape, features, posture
• Most Important
• Ties look together
• Pleasing arrangement of shapes & lines
• Line, Color & Texture
• Balance & rhythm strengthen design

22. REVIEW-Wednesday
• What are the Principles of Hair Design
(NEED TO KNOW!!!!)
• Why is Proportion important when designing
a hair style?
• What are the 2 types of balances?
• Rhythm in hair can be describes in 2 ways.
What are they?
• What can create Emphasis in a hair style?
• Which Principle ties ALL the look together
and is considered the most important?

23. HAIR TYPE & TEXTURE • Wave pattern and Texture give us 12
different hair types to choose from
TEXTURE
WAVE PATTERN
How the follicle tunnels
into the scalp

24. HAIR TYPE & TEXTURE

25. HAIR TYPE & TEXTURE

26. HAIR TEXTURE- Refers to diameter & cuticle layers
Choosing the right
Chemical, Style, Heat tool is
based off of hair texture:
EXAMPLE- Does Fine hair
need the same strength as
Coarse hair since the cuticle
layers are different?
up to 18 9-13 4-8

27. WAVE PATTERN
• STRAIGHT
• WAVY
• CURLY
• EXTRA CURLY
COILY
KINKY
• Hair texture and Wave pattern are extremely
important
• Every bend in the hair is a weak point
• Example: Fine extra curly is most fragile
because of cuticle layers & bending point

28. HAIR DENSITY

29. FACE SHAPES
To determine a facial shape divide the face into three zones:
• Forehead to eyebrow
• Eyebrows to end of nose
• End of nose to bottom of chin
• A client’s facial shape is determined by the position and
prominence of the facial bones.
• To determine facial shape pull all of the client’s hair
completely off the face using a towel or hair band, so that
you can better observe just the client’s face.
Generally we are trying to create the illusion of an oval shaped
face. We can state our professional opinion with tact BUT be
conscious that we are there to give the guest what THEY WANT
1.
2.
3.
Face shapes: Oval, Round , Square, Triangle, Inverted Triangle, Diamond, Oblong

30. REVIEW-Thursday • How do we describe Hair texture? Why is it
important?
• What is the difference between Hair texture
and Wave pattern?
• Why is knowing the Density important?
• Which hair type is considered the “ideal”?
• Which hair type is considered the most
fragile?
• Why is curly hair more fragile?
• How many sections is the face shape broken
into? Why is it important to approach each
section differently?
• What are the basic face shapes?
• REVIEW HAIR TEXTURE / TYPE &
WHAT IS BEST OPTION FOR
EACH!!!!!!!

31. FACE SHAPES
To determine a facial shape divide the face into three zones:
• Forehead to eyebrow
• Eyebrows to end of nose
• End of nose to bottom of chin
• A client’s facial shape is determined by the position and
prominence of the facial bones.
• To determine facial shape pull all of the client’s hair
completely off the face using a towel or hair band, so that
you can better observe just the client’s face.
Generally we are trying to create the illusion of an oval shaped
face. We can state our professional opinion with tact BUT be
conscious that we are there to give the guest what THEY WANT
1.
2.
3.
Face shapes: Oval, Round , Square, Triangle, Inverted Triangle, Diamond, Oblong

32. FACE SHAPES

33. FACE SHAPES

34. FACE SHAPES

35. PROFILES
STRAIGHT CONCAVE CONVEX

36. FOREHEADS
NARROW WIDE/LARGE RECEDING

37. EYES/NOSE
CROOKED NOSE
WIDE NOSE

38. EYES/NOSE
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS:
• Long narrow nose
• Small nose
• Prominent nose
• Round jaw
• Square jaw
• Long jaw
• Receding chin
• Small chin
• Large chin
• All of these features can be found
in you Milady book
• Each feature has qualities from
other features previously discussed
• Most face shapes will require
more than one ENHANCEMENT
or CAMOFLAGUE technique
since each face has different eyes,
nose & jaws

39. HEAD SHAPE
We all have different head shapes!
Make sure to do a through analyzation of the guest actual head shape
Accommodate the hairstyle / cut to camouflage any flat or protruding areas by either creating volume or minimizing volume

40. STYLING
• TRIANGLE
• CURVED
• DIAGONAL
• WITH GLASSES

41. STYLE PARTS
CENTER
DIAGONAL SIDE ZIGZAG

42. MENS STYLING
• All the Principles can
apply to Men’s
styling
• Face shape/structure
• Head shape
• Remember to inquire
about life style,
career and hobbies

43. REVIEW-Friday
• Which face shape is considered ideal?
• Why is important to identify your guest face shape?
• What is the best way to identify their face shape?
• What are the 3 types of profiles?
• Why is the actual head shape ( not face shape )
important ?
• What are some design parts?
• What are some considerations for Mens styling?
• REVIEW FACE SHAPES AND PROPER WAYS
TO STYLE FOR THEM!!!!!!

45. • Most important part of ANY
service
• A positive start
• Greet & walk WITH THEM to
your station
• Strong OPEN ENDED questions
• Eye contact NOT mirror eye
contact
• Proper draping
• Expectations VS. Reality
• Maintenance
• Routine at home ( products, styling,
time etc.)
• Life style, career, hobbies…? etc.
• Detangle hair, check for abrasions
• D.E.P.T.H
Density. Elasticity. Porosity. Texture. Hair History

46. DRAPING • Decide on proper draping
• Cutting cape or Chemical cape
• Neck strip
• Shampoo, Styling, Cutting require
towel or neck strip and cloth cape
• Chemicals require double drape:
towel, chemical cape and another
towel on top
• Always cape at your station
• Always change towels & or cape
if wet
• Neck strip for sanitation
• New cape for each guest if not
using a neck strip

47. CHOOSING THE RIGHT
SHAMPOO & CONDTIONER

48. Shampoo Experience • Be careful on longer hair & fine hair
not to create too much friction and
tension ( knot easily )
• Repeat if necessary
• Rinse
• Apply proper conditioner
• Massage scalp 3-5 minutes
• Rinse well
• Squeeze hair
• Gently wrap in a towel
• Do not rough up hair or create a
back and forth movement with
towel.
• WIPE OUT SINK
• Walk with guest back to your station
• After through hair & scalp analysis: Determine
correct Products to use
• Have Guest remove any jewelry
• Check that the sink has been cleaned
• Test water temperature
• Begin at front hairline; cup your hand to direct
water towards you
• Dispense proper amount of product based on
hair density & texture
• Apply shampoo evenly through hair with a
stroking motion
• Use circular movements and cushions of
finger tips to emulsify shampoo

49. BLOWDRYING
TOOLS & PRODUCTS

50. BLOWDRYING PROCEDURE
• Detangle the hair
• Power blast 50% of moisture out
using finger
• Add paddle brush or vent brush to
begin smoothing & removing UP TO
80% moisture
• Section hair
• Begin in the nape
• Dry Fringe first
• Choose proper finishing brush for
desired end result
• Remember to focus air flow in same
direction as cuticle
• Do not stay in one spot for too long
• Use cool shot to set style
Section off TOP & front
hairline depending on
density, hair texture & how
Guest wants front styled

51. THERMAL STYLING
MARCEL IRON
FLAT IRON
• Test temperature
• Use thermal protectant spray
• Adjust temperature based on texture
• Sections are as large as your tool
• Keep irons clean
• Use hard rubber / carbon comb
• Use comb as barrier between iron &
scalp
• Curl/ straighten clean, dry hair
• Do not hold iron in one place for too
long
• Avoid fishhooks
• Let iron cool completely before
putting away
• Let hair cool/set
• Practice.Practice.Practice

52. ROLLER SET/ BASE CONTROL
ON ON HALF
OFF
OFF
HALF
OFF
OFF
135
90
45
• Base- hair at scalp
• Placement = volume
• Longer hold then marcel
• Tool size determines section size
• Proper tension
• Proper product based on texture & desired end result
• Great foundation for upstyling

53. ROLLER SET
BRICKLAY PATTERN
HEADBAND with natural part

54. UPSTYLES
• BACKBRUSHING/ TEASING
• Creates foundation for upstyles
• Used to create volume
• Use tease to comb out a roller set

55. UPSTYLES
PROFESSIONAL PONY HALF UP

56. UPSTYLES
FRENCH
TWIST
CHIGNON

57. BRAIDS
3 STRAND
FRENCH
DUTCH/INVERTED
ROPE
FISHTAIL

58. Elements. Principles. Styling
HAIR
DESIGN
WHAT DID YOU LEARN?