7. RIB WEAVE
CONSTRUCTION
Rib is a basic weave which
produces ribs on the fabric. It is a
variation of plain weave.
The construction follows the
same basics of plain weave i.e.,
weft yarns going under and over
the warp yarn.
Normally one heavy weight yarn
is used either as warp or weft.
8. PROPERTIES
SOFT IN NATURE
COMFORTABLE TO WEAR
ONLY STRETCHES ON THE BIAS
VERSATILE
FLEXIBLE
LUSTUROUS
FRAYS EASILY
HIGHLY DURABLE
CAN BE MADE WATER RESISTANT
CREASE RESISTANT
SMOOTH
THIN
11. LENO WEAVE
CONSTRUCTION
A leno weave is created by twisting two
yarns together for the warp yarns.
These yarns create a helix-like structure.
The weft yarns are interwoven through the
holes created in the twisted warp yarns.
This is done using a special loom
attachment called a ‘Doup’ and this means
that the interwoven warp and weft yarns
are locked in place.
14. RAW MATERIALS
Leno weave fabrics can be made
using many different fibres
although one of the most common
is silk
15. PILE WEAVE
CONSTRUCTION
This kind of weave is produced with
an extra set of yarns(warp or filling)
known as pile yarns. This means the
fabric have a regular warp yarn and
a extra set of yarn known as filling
yarns.
There are 2 types of Pile weave
a) The warp pile fabric
b) The filling pile fabric.
If the pile yarns are cut it is known
as cut pile and if not cut it is known
as un cut pile fabric.
18. RAW MATERIAL
Many fibres can be used in creating a
pile weave, such as cotton, silk and
wool. Synthetic fibres can also be used
nowadays to create fabrics with
different properties.
19. SATIN WEAVE
CONSTRUCTION
The warp yarns are evenly spaced
across the loom and anchored at
either end.
Instead of the basic way the weft is
usually taken over one warp yarn and
under the next, in Satin weave it is
passed over several and then under
just one to anchor the weave.
These long stretches of weft yarns are
called ‘Floats.’ It is these floats that
make the surface of the fabric so
lustrous
23. OXFORD/ MATT/ BASKET WEAVE
CONSTRUCTION
It is actually a variation of the Basket
weave and uses a colored weft and a white
warp. This creates a subtle basket effect
with white overtones.
This weave can be created using many
different yarns in various weights and
thicknesses.
24. PROPERTIES
COARSE AND HEAVY
COMFORTABLE TO WEAR
LARGER WEAVE
BREATHABLE
EASY TO CARE FOR
WASHABLE
HOLDS ITS SHAPE
CASUAL FABRIC
STURDY
DURABLE
HEAVIER THAN VOILE AND MUSLIN
25. END USES
Oxford Shirts
Royal Oxford weave is used
in the manufacture of
expensive formal shirts
Garments that need to be
breathable
Shorts
Sportswear
26. RAW MATERIAL
Oxford weave was made using
primarily cotton, but nowadays
many other fibres are used
including Polyester, Viscose and
other synthetic fibres.
29. RIB STITCH
CONSTRUCTION
Rib-knit fabrics have alternating lengthwise rows
of plain and purl stitches constructed so that face
and back of the fabric appear alike.
One set of needles is placed vertically in a cylinder
and the other set of needle is placed horizontally
on a dial.
In both machines one set of needles pull the loop
to the front and the other set pulls the loop to the
back of the fabric.
Each set of needles alternately draws loops in its
own direction, depending upon the width of the rib
desired.
Rib stitches can be 1X1, 2X2, 2X1, 3X1 etc.
33. INTERLOCK
• It is a variation of rib stitch.
• It resembles two separate
1X1 rib fabric interknitted.
34. PROPERTIES
FABRIC
DOESNOT
CURLAT
EDGES
Wales of each side
exactly apposite to
each other and are
locked together.
FABRIC
THICKNESS IS
APPROXIMATELY
TWICE THAN
THAT OF SINGLE
JERSY
FABRIC CAN BE
UNRAVELED
FROM THE
KNITTED LAST.
APPEARNCE
OF FRONT
AND BACK IS
SAME
BETTER
HUMIDITY
REMOVAL
PROPERTY
BETTER HEAT
INSULATION
37. PURL KNIT
CONSTRUCTION
Known as link and link stitch
It is made by flat bed and circular bed
machines by using needles using hooks on
both ends to alternately draw loops to the
front of the fabric in one course and to the
back in the next course
It is a costly and also slow technique
41. TRICOT KNIT
CONSTRUCTION
The machine is has one or more
warp beams mounted above it.
Each set of the yarn from a warp
beam is fed to a row of needles
arranged across the width of the
machine and is controlled by a
yarn guide set up in a guide bar
that is laid across the machine.
45. RASCHEL KNIT
MANUFACTURING
The raschel knit is made with
latched needles rather then the
bearded type used for tricot,
Milanese and simplex.
Raschel is made up of heavy yarns
50. • Color of the print smears or smudges
from rubbing against an object before
it becomes dry
Color Drag
• The print paste instead of being placed
on the fabric is thrown or splattered
onto the fabric surface
Color splatter
• The edges of the patterns are not
sharp, clear lines but fuzzy lines.
Frequently caused by improper
singeing or improper thickened paste
Fuzzy pattern
• Printing rolls or screens improperly
aligned so pattern parts do not meet
properly. This imperfection is called
out-of-fit or out-of-register
Off register
• Color streak across fabric
resulting from printing machine
being stopped during printing
process and then starting again
Stop mark
Printing Defects
51. • One or more colors of the print cause
weekend areas where they were printed.
Usually due to excessive use of injurious
chemicals in the print paste. Found in
discharged area of discharge prints.
Tender spots
• It is a printed surface which appears as rough
as sharkskin. The main reason is the
unsuitability of color paste and uneven
adhesion.
Blebbiness
• motif blurs results due to unclear outline
design. The low viscosity of the color paste.
Concentration of the dye stuff in the print
paste is too high which results into the high
amount of hygroscopic printing agent
Bleeding
• Defect looks like scratches due to the warp
and weft yarns. The yarns have been turned
upside down. The insufficient penetration of
color paste is the main cause of this defect.
Flipped yarn
• Caused due to Low viscosity of print paste.
It occurs when the printed area bleeds out
into the unprinted area. The result is a
haloing or shadowing effect around the
outline of the pattern design
Flushing/
Wicking
52. • A misfit is a print defect caused by
improper alignment of the screens. Also
known as out of registration, misfits leave
unprinted areas in the design. For example,
a green leaf may overlap its black outline
or print over another color.
Misfits
• Occurs when fabric creases underneath one
of the screens during the printing process.
The pattern is then printed on top of the
crease, leaving a large unprinted area when
the fabric returns to its relaxed state.
Scrimps
• Caused due to screen has holes in it that
should have been covered. This could be
because of ageing of the screen and eventual
damage or just improper exposure to light.
Unwanted
pigment
marking on
Fabric
• Color applied unevenly during printing.Mottled
• Belt-like-stain appears vertical to the
direction of roller printing
Doctor mark
53. Listing Double printing
Poorly adjusted
screen
Crack of print
pasteUneven printingUnprinted area
Moiré
Crack or Miss
Alignment in
Transfer Printed
Fabric
Printing
Machine Stop
54.
55. • Filling yarns(or courses) are straight but not
at right angles to the warp (or wales).caused
by improper alignment on the tenter frame.
Prevents proper joining of pattern parts in
garment manufacture
Bias
Fabric(skew)
• The filling yarns curve in the fabric and
do not go straight across. Caused by
improper tenter frame procedures or
result of frame operating at too high a
speed. Prevent joining of pattern parts in
garment manufacture
Bowed Fabric
• Result from excessive amounts of or
improper application of chemical finishing
agents
Boardy Fabric
• Result from inadequate amounts or
improper application of chemical finishing
agents. The condition is sometimes called
sleazy
Limp Fabric
• Results from excessive or improper
application of chemical finishes
Tender goods
56. • In producing a yarn, long fibers tightly-twisted
produce a serviceable yarn. When short stable
fibers are mixed into the yarn the result is a
yarn that will not hold together. The short
staple fibers will separate from the yarn and
curl up in a ball, forming what is referred to as
a pill.
Pilling
• Garment not Folded to Specifications, with
proper Materials:
• Cardboard, tissue or other specified packaging
materials omitted
• Garments not Buttoned, Fly's not
• Closed, Incorrect Number of Pins
Folding Defects
• Frequently caused by the turning equipment
used to reverse garments in finishingSeam Tears
• Fabric does not have the same character or
degree of finish throughout
Uneven finish
57.
58. • In woven fabric a horizontal band
of off shaded yarns extending from
selvage to selvage. Caused by
differences in filling yarn size or
differences in tension of warp or
filling yarns
Barre
• Color in a dyed fabric which rubs
off rather easily onto other fabric
surfaces. May be caused by
inadequate scouring(soaping)at the
completion of dyeing cycle
Color Crocking
• Loss of color from a dyed fabric
when immersed in a liquid. The
liquid subsequently becomes
colored
Color bleeding
• Color of the dyed fabric does not
match the standard color or
referenced sample
Off shade
Dyeing Defects
59. • Shade change which appear as
horizontal selvage to selvage change.
Caused by filling change (new filling
bobbin) or loom stop and subsequent
start up
Shade bar
• One color and white where the dye of
colored portion stains white portion
sometimes called unclear cross dye
Stained cross dye
• A discolored area on cloth. Caused by
foreign matter such as dirt,grease,oil or
residues of sizing on the fabric being
dyed.
Stained, Streaked
• Places in the fabric which have been
excessively weakened usually by
exposure to processing chemicals.
When entire fabric is weakened it refer
to as tender goods. Also occur in
finishing and printing procedures
Tender spots
60. • Difference in shade of a fabric from
edge to edge or one end of a fabric to
other called selvage to selvage shading
or end to end shading
Uneven
shades(shading)
• Caused due to tendering which takes
place because Sulpher is converted into
sulphuric acid after oxidation which is
harmful for the cellulosic fibers. The
defect occurred after washing the
garment
Hole in Sulfur
Dyed Fabric
• Causes unleveled penetration of dyes
which in turn results into unleveled
dyeing, which causes color variation. It
refers to color that doesn't exactly match
the standard or the prepared sample.
• This may be due to faulty dye
foundation or application or may be due
to variation in dye lot.
Creasing
61. • non-uniform dent spacing, wrong
drawing-in, or count variations. Also, the
variations in luster, reflectance of dye
pick-up of adjacent groups arising out of
differences in raw materials, blend
composition or yarn constructions
contribute for streaks. These are narrow,
barre and dense stripes running along the
warp direction.
Warp streaks
• excessive warp tension, late shedding,
use of coarse reed with more number of
ends per dent, bent reed wires, improper
spacing of reed wires, wrong drawing,
and insufficient troughing of shed, i.e.
tension difference between top and
bottom shed lines during beat up.
Reediness
• excessive tension in the weft feed
package, especially in filaments,
variability in pick density and difference
in twist, color or shade of adjacent group
of picks, difference in blend composition
or in the cottons used.
Weft bar
Weaving Defects
62. • improper setting of anti crack motion,
loose fitting of reed, loose or worn out
crank, worn out crank arm, worn out
crank shaft bearings, loose belt, worn
out duck bills and beaters, weft fork
not functioning properly, faulty take
up, brake motion not acting
instantaneously, shuttle striking on the
weft fork due to weak picking, swing
rail worn out,
Weft crack:
• irregular let-off, incorrect setting of
holding and releasing pawls on the
ratchet wheel of take-up motion, gears
of take-up motion not meshing
properly, and gear wheel teeth worn
out or broken.
Thick and thin
places
• Loops project from the surface of cloth
either on one or both sides of a cloth
because of a small portion of weft
getting caught by the warp threads.
The main reasons are late shedding,
low warp tension and use of bad
temples
Weft loops
63. • improper alignment of cone in weft
feeder, lower twist in weft resulting
in weft opening out in air-jet looms,
grippers missing the picks,
improper knotting of tail ends, and
rough handling of cones are the
main reasons for higher weft
breaks.
Weft breaks
• Improper shuttle wire tension, bent
shuttle jaw, shuttle crack, more
tension on selvedge yarns, late
shedding resulting in rubbing of
shuttle to the selvedge and improper
selection of selvedge weave for the
fabric being woven are the main
reasons for bad selvedge.
Bad selvedge
• Knot is defined as a knob or lump
formed by interlacing portions of
one or more flexible strands or a
quantity of yarn, or thread, which
varies with the fibre; it consists of a
set of coils. Control in pirn winding,
the winding to binding coils ratio
can solve this problem
Knot
64. • Higher diameter in yarn for a short
distance can be due to improper
piecing at spinning preparatory or
drop in pressure on the drafting
rollers for a short time. This also
can happen due to not removing of
spinners double, not piecing the
end properly by removing the
lapped materials, accumulation of
fluff in condensers, cradles and in
the necks of the top rollers
Thick end and
thick picks
• A defect in woven fabric caused by
a missing or out-of sequence yarn.Mispick
• Fibre filaments that break in yarn
due to friction leaving small
clumps of loose fibres on the
surface
Pilling
65. Box marks
High incidence
of warp breaks
Shuttle traps
Broken picks Broken end Coarse pick
Coarse end Tight end Float
Double end
Contamination
of fluff
Slough off
Other Weaving defects
66.
67. Yarn Defects
SLUB
Accumulation
of fly and
fluff on the
machine parts.
Poor carding.
Defective ring
frame drafting
and bad
piecing
Improperly
clothed top
roller clearers
NEPS
Accumulation
of fly and
fluff on the
machine parts
Poor carding.
Defective ring
frame drafting
and bad
piecing
Improperly
clothed top
roller clearers
SNARL
Higher than
normal twist
in the yarn
Presence of
too many long
thin places in
the yarn
THICK AND
THIN
PLACES
Eccentric top
and bottom
rollers,
Insufficient
pressure on
top rollers,
Improper
meshing of
gear wheels
OIL
STAINED
YARN
Careless oil in
the moving
parts, over
head pulleys
etc Piecing's
made with
oily or dirty
fingers
Careless
material
handlings
68. CRACKERS
Mixing of
cottons of
widely differing
staple length,
Closer roller
settings
optimum
temperature and
relative
humidity in the
spinning shed
OILY
SLUB
Accumulati
on of oily
fluff on
machinery
parts
Negligence
in
segregating
the oily
waste from
process
waste
HAIRINES
Use of worn
rings and
lighter
travellers
Maintaining
low relative
humidity,
closer roller
settings and
very high
spindle
speeds
FOREIGN
MATTER
S
Improper
handling of
travellers
Improper
preparation
of mixings
CORK
SCREW
YARN
Feeding of
two ends
(instead of
one ) in
ring frame
Lashing -in
ends in
ring frame
69. • Bad selvedge in woven fabric due
to the faulty weaving. Here, warp
ends being set too far apart for the
thickness of the yarn or in finished
fabric.
Bad or defective
selvedge
• A defect in the woven fabric
caused by a warp yarn that was
broken during weaving or finishing
Broken ends or
warp
• A filling yarn that is broken in the
weaving of fabric
Broken picks or
weft
Woven Fabric Defects
70. Loose warp:
• This type of fault is produced in woven fabric when the tension of
warp yarn is slow
Loose weft or snarl:
• It is produced in woven fabric due to the looseness of filling yarn.
Double ends
• This kind of fault is produced in woven fabric when the two ends of
warp sticks get together after sizing
Tight ends
If the tension of warp yarn is more than the other ends present in the
loom then this type of fault is produced in woven fabric
71. Float of warp
• If someone pulls the fabric together the cloth roller intentionally or
unintentionally then this kind of defect is produced in woven fabric
Wrong end color
• It is produced in woven fabric due to the wrong drawing of colored
yarn
Miss pick
• This kind of defect is produced in woven fabric when operator starts
a stopped machine without picking the broken weft from the shade
Double pick
It is produced in woven fabric when the cutter don’t work properly
72. Weft bar
• When count of yarn varies from one cone to another cone then a
bar of weft will be appeared in fabric after weaving
Ball
If the warp is too much hairy then the reed will create ball in warp
yarn in between reed and heald shaft. If the ball is small enough to
pass through the dent of reed then those will form the ball in fabric.
Hole
• A fabric imperfection in which one or several yarns are
sufficiently damaged to create an opening
Oil spot or stain
• Discoloration on a local area of a substrate that may be resistant
to remove by laundering or dry cleaning. It occurs during
spinning, weaving or finishing. It is also often seen in the woven
fabric.
73. Tails out:
This kind of fault is produced in woven fabric if the cutter doesn’t
work properly.
Temple mark
If the placement of ring in the temple bar is wrong or the pressure of
temple to the fabrics is too high then this type of fault is produced
Reed mark
In woven fabric, a crack between the groups of warp ends either
continuous or at intervals. It’s may be caused by the wrong drawing-
in of the warp or damage to the reed wires
Slub
If the yarn contains unexpected slub in it then those slub will be
appeared in the fabric as a fault.
Thick and thin place
Fabric defect in which fabric count varies more than a specified
percentage from the intended count. If the thick or thin place is more
than one inch (2.54cm) wide then it is considered as a major defect in
fabric grading.
74. Dye Mark
▪Dye Spot
Holes
• by defective machine elements
Ladder
• Wales Collapse in straight line
Missing Plush Loop
▪ Malfunctioning of loop
Pin Marks
▪ Poorly adjusted stenter pin
Knitted Fabric defects
