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HARVESTING AND HANDLING HONEY
FOR HOBBY AND SIDELINE BEEKEEPERS
JONATHAN R. ENGELSMA, PH.D.
TOPICS
• About Us
• Producing Honey
• Harvesting Honey
• Handling Honey
QUICK FACTS
• We are a family of nine from Nunica, MI
• Mieke and Jonathan share a background in agriculture
• Jonathan works as a prof in GVSU’s School of Computing and starting
keeping bees in 1984.
• Family runs a sideline bee operation
• run 40-60 colonies mainly for honey production
• retail the annual honey crop
• sell nucs when able.
• Website: http://hudsonvillehoney.com
HONEY PRODUCTION -
PREREQUISITES
• Scout for good yard
locations and place
colonies prior to main
honey flow.
• Make sure colonies are
strong and healthy prior
to main nectar flow.
• Make sure equipment is
assembled and ready
prior to main honey flow.
LOCATION, LOCATION,
LOCATION
• Scout a year or more in
advance for good locations.
• Take good care of the
landowners and their land.
• Respect existing bee yards.
• Do the math when
establishing remote yards.
STRONG AND HEALTHY
COLONIES
• Good queens
• Encourage early spring
buildup.
• Equalize colonies
• Monitor and keep mite
populations in check!
• Keep a decent inventory
of nucs on hand.
HONEY PRODUCTION
EQUIPMENT
• Decide what kind of
honey you are going to
produce.
• Purchase / assemble
supers & frames for
surplus honey in advance
of honey flow.
• Better to have more
supers than you think you
need!
PRODUCING CUT COMB HONEY
• Minimal amount of
standard equipment
required!
• standard honey supers /
frames with “thin
surplus” foundation
• bee brush to free comb
of bees
• sharp knife to cut into
sections
CUT COMB ALONG SIDE
EXTRACT HONEY PRODUCTION
• Intersperse marked comb
honey frames within
extract supers.
• share the pain of
drawing out foundation
across all your colonies
• Use irregular shaped or
partially capped sections
to produce “chunk
honey”.
HANDLING CUT COMB HONEY
• Harvest from hive as soon as
capped.
• Cut and allow edges to drip
dry.
• use clean queen excluder
over a commercial
serving pan.
• Package and freeze for 24
hours to kill any wax moth /
hive beetle larva.
• Market / use before it
crystallizes!
ALTERNATIVES TO CUT COMB
• Ross Rounds / Bassword /
Hogg Sections
• Hard to get bees to
work in the sections
• Equipment is much
more expensive
• Must read: “Honey in the
Comb” by Eugene Killon.
Dadaist & Sons.
EQUIPMENT FOR EXTRACT
HONEY PRODUCTION
• What size supers should be
used?
• deeps - back breakers!
• shallows - easy enough
for a healthy adult to lift,
stack, etc.
• mediums - a little heavier
than a shallow, but still
manageable.
• We use wired foundation
and embed horizontal
wires … most of the time.
SUPERING
• Start adding super(s) in spring
when the brood chamber(s) are
~ 70 - 80% full of bees/brood/
food.
• Whitening of the combs means
the honey flow is on!
• Several options to consider:
• Add all supers at once!
• Bottom supering - add supers
under existing supers
sequentially as needed.
• Top Supering - add supers
directly on top of existing
supers
WHEN TO HARVEST HONEY
• When to harvest?
• Not before it is (mostly)
capped.
• When the main nectar
flow has ended.
• Allow yourself time to
knock back the mites!
MOISTURE CONTENT IN HONEY
• Refractometer: device
used to measure moisture
content in honey.
• Should be about 16-18.5%
• > 18.5% the honey will
ferment!
• Good rule of thumb is to
harvest honey when it is
mostly capped.
HARVESTING HONEY (1)
• For the hobby beekeeper
(< 5 hives).
• use a bee brush to
remove bees.
• bee escape (takes 24
hours)
HARVESTING HONEY (2)
• For the sideliner with
more hives:
• fume boards with a
fumigant
• clears the supers of
bees in minutes
• blower is handy to
remove bees clinging to
brood (inevitable if you
don’t use excluders…)
HARVESTING TIPS
• Which fumigant?
• Bee Go - very effective,
but stinks terribly and
so will you when you’re
done!
• Bee Quick - made of
non toxic natural oils
and herbal extracts.
Smells is tolerable and
works fine.
MORE HARVESTING TIPS…
• Watch the weather forecast
and harvest on a nice warm
sunny day.
• Paint your fume boards black
to absorb heat and work more
effectively.
• Have enough fume boards for
speedy super removal (we
plan on 1 board for every 4
hives).
• If loading on a truck or trailer,
always cover harvested honey
immediately to avoid robbing.
HONEY EXTRACTING FACILITY
• Some very important requirements
for honey extracting facilities:
• Must be “bee tight”. Very
important or you will have an
out of control disaster and lots
of competition for your honey!
• A warm room: like molasses,
honey doesn’t flow if its not
warm!
• The proper electrical service if
you are running powered
equipment.
• An abundance of hot water to
facilitate clean up
OUR EXTRACTION PROCESS
• Typical Extracting Day:
• 9am - 10am: make sure we
have enough buckets for
the day. hook up trailer,
load fume boards, etc.
• 10am - 1pm: remove
around 50 supers, 1 - 1.2k
pounds of honey
• 1pm - 8 pm: immediately
extract the honey while it
is still nice and warm!
EXTRACTORS
• For the hobby beekeeper (< 10
colonies)
• A hand powered 2-4 frame
extractor ($300 - $400) will
suffice.
• For the larger hobby / sideline
operation:
• powered 8+ frame extractor
($1,000+)
• Radial vs. tangential extractors
THE UNCAPPING PROCESS
• For the hobby beekeeper
(< 5 hives)
• Cold knife or capping
scratcher ($5 - $20)
• For larger hobby / sideliner
(< 60 hives)
• hot knife/plane will
suffice ($120)
• For larger sideliner, you’ll
want something less labor
intensive and more
efficient…
PROCESSING THE CAPPINGS
• Possibly your biggest bottleneck!
• Hobby Beekeeper (< 5 hives)
• Build your own solar wax
melter! (< $50)
• Larger Hobby / Sideliner
• Walter T. Kelley’s Capping
Melter / Separator ($600)
• Maxant Jr. Capping Spinner
($1500)
Steve Tilman’s Solar Wax Melter - http://www.michiganbees.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Solar-Wax-Melter_20100727.pdf
PROCESSING THE HONEY
• Our current process:
• screen strain immediately
out of the extractor to
remove larger debris.
• immediately filter with a
400 or 600 micron filter
while still warm from the
hive (sold as raw unheated
honey)
• Remaining honey is put into
50 gallon buckets and
warmed / filtered (400
micron) bottled as needed.
SCALING UP
Source: http://www.maxantindustries.com/pdfs/packages.pdf
DECRYSTALLIZING HONEY
• For the hobby beekeeper:
• put honey container in a pan
of water on stove with burner
on low for several hours.
• dashboard of vehicle parked
in the sunshine?
• Siderliner:
• for buckets use a round pail
heater to liquify overnight
($110)
• Similar (but larger) heating
bands can be used for honey
stored in drums.
BOTTLING HONEY
• For the hobby beekeeper
• Use a 5 gallon bucket
with a gate on the
bottom. ($15)
• For the sideline
beekeeper:
• We use a 16 gallon
Maxant bottling tank.
ANOTHER CONSIDERATION:
CREAMED HONEY
• Easy to make, and honey
customers love it! (Google for
recipes).
• Lessons we learned the hard
way:
• Use a high quality drill (1/2
inch w/ 10.5 amps or more)
for mixing seed honey. ($140)
• Purchase a stainless steel
paint mixer attachment. ($50)
• Mix in a stainless steel
container to avoid plastic
chips in your honey!! ($35)
POST EXTRACTION
CONSIDERATIONS
• Prior to storing, place
extracted “wet” supers
outside at least 100 yards
from your apiary to allow
bees to clean them up.
• Protect your stored supers
against wax moth
infestations (and mice).
• Para-Moth crystals
• Wrap / Shrinkwrap
SOME CLOSING THOUGHTS
• Don’t be afraid to
experiment and find a
process that works
efficiently (and
economically for you!)
• Learn from your fellow
beekeepers.
ANY QUESTIONS?
Jonathan Engelsma’s Contact Info:
• email: jengelsma@gmail.com
• web: http://hudsonvillehoney.com
• twitter.com/honeyandcandles
• Like us! /hudsonvillehoney
• A copy of these slides are posted on:
• http://slideshare.net/jonathanengelsma

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Harvesting and Handling Honey for Hobby and Small Sideline Beekeepers

  • 1. HARVESTING AND HANDLING HONEY FOR HOBBY AND SIDELINE BEEKEEPERS JONATHAN R. ENGELSMA, PH.D.
  • 2. TOPICS • About Us • Producing Honey • Harvesting Honey • Handling Honey
  • 3.
  • 4. QUICK FACTS • We are a family of nine from Nunica, MI • Mieke and Jonathan share a background in agriculture • Jonathan works as a prof in GVSU’s School of Computing and starting keeping bees in 1984. • Family runs a sideline bee operation • run 40-60 colonies mainly for honey production • retail the annual honey crop • sell nucs when able. • Website: http://hudsonvillehoney.com
  • 5. HONEY PRODUCTION - PREREQUISITES • Scout for good yard locations and place colonies prior to main honey flow. • Make sure colonies are strong and healthy prior to main nectar flow. • Make sure equipment is assembled and ready prior to main honey flow.
  • 6. LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION • Scout a year or more in advance for good locations. • Take good care of the landowners and their land. • Respect existing bee yards. • Do the math when establishing remote yards.
  • 7. STRONG AND HEALTHY COLONIES • Good queens • Encourage early spring buildup. • Equalize colonies • Monitor and keep mite populations in check! • Keep a decent inventory of nucs on hand.
  • 8. HONEY PRODUCTION EQUIPMENT • Decide what kind of honey you are going to produce. • Purchase / assemble supers & frames for surplus honey in advance of honey flow. • Better to have more supers than you think you need!
  • 9. PRODUCING CUT COMB HONEY • Minimal amount of standard equipment required! • standard honey supers / frames with “thin surplus” foundation • bee brush to free comb of bees • sharp knife to cut into sections
  • 10. CUT COMB ALONG SIDE EXTRACT HONEY PRODUCTION • Intersperse marked comb honey frames within extract supers. • share the pain of drawing out foundation across all your colonies • Use irregular shaped or partially capped sections to produce “chunk honey”.
  • 11. HANDLING CUT COMB HONEY • Harvest from hive as soon as capped. • Cut and allow edges to drip dry. • use clean queen excluder over a commercial serving pan. • Package and freeze for 24 hours to kill any wax moth / hive beetle larva. • Market / use before it crystallizes!
  • 12. ALTERNATIVES TO CUT COMB • Ross Rounds / Bassword / Hogg Sections • Hard to get bees to work in the sections • Equipment is much more expensive • Must read: “Honey in the Comb” by Eugene Killon. Dadaist & Sons.
  • 13. EQUIPMENT FOR EXTRACT HONEY PRODUCTION • What size supers should be used? • deeps - back breakers! • shallows - easy enough for a healthy adult to lift, stack, etc. • mediums - a little heavier than a shallow, but still manageable. • We use wired foundation and embed horizontal wires … most of the time.
  • 14. SUPERING • Start adding super(s) in spring when the brood chamber(s) are ~ 70 - 80% full of bees/brood/ food. • Whitening of the combs means the honey flow is on! • Several options to consider: • Add all supers at once! • Bottom supering - add supers under existing supers sequentially as needed. • Top Supering - add supers directly on top of existing supers
  • 15. WHEN TO HARVEST HONEY • When to harvest? • Not before it is (mostly) capped. • When the main nectar flow has ended. • Allow yourself time to knock back the mites!
  • 16. MOISTURE CONTENT IN HONEY • Refractometer: device used to measure moisture content in honey. • Should be about 16-18.5% • > 18.5% the honey will ferment! • Good rule of thumb is to harvest honey when it is mostly capped.
  • 17. HARVESTING HONEY (1) • For the hobby beekeeper (< 5 hives). • use a bee brush to remove bees. • bee escape (takes 24 hours)
  • 18. HARVESTING HONEY (2) • For the sideliner with more hives: • fume boards with a fumigant • clears the supers of bees in minutes • blower is handy to remove bees clinging to brood (inevitable if you don’t use excluders…)
  • 19. HARVESTING TIPS • Which fumigant? • Bee Go - very effective, but stinks terribly and so will you when you’re done! • Bee Quick - made of non toxic natural oils and herbal extracts. Smells is tolerable and works fine.
  • 20. MORE HARVESTING TIPS… • Watch the weather forecast and harvest on a nice warm sunny day. • Paint your fume boards black to absorb heat and work more effectively. • Have enough fume boards for speedy super removal (we plan on 1 board for every 4 hives). • If loading on a truck or trailer, always cover harvested honey immediately to avoid robbing.
  • 21. HONEY EXTRACTING FACILITY • Some very important requirements for honey extracting facilities: • Must be “bee tight”. Very important or you will have an out of control disaster and lots of competition for your honey! • A warm room: like molasses, honey doesn’t flow if its not warm! • The proper electrical service if you are running powered equipment. • An abundance of hot water to facilitate clean up
  • 22.
  • 23. OUR EXTRACTION PROCESS • Typical Extracting Day: • 9am - 10am: make sure we have enough buckets for the day. hook up trailer, load fume boards, etc. • 10am - 1pm: remove around 50 supers, 1 - 1.2k pounds of honey • 1pm - 8 pm: immediately extract the honey while it is still nice and warm!
  • 24. EXTRACTORS • For the hobby beekeeper (< 10 colonies) • A hand powered 2-4 frame extractor ($300 - $400) will suffice. • For the larger hobby / sideline operation: • powered 8+ frame extractor ($1,000+) • Radial vs. tangential extractors
  • 25. THE UNCAPPING PROCESS • For the hobby beekeeper (< 5 hives) • Cold knife or capping scratcher ($5 - $20) • For larger hobby / sideliner (< 60 hives) • hot knife/plane will suffice ($120) • For larger sideliner, you’ll want something less labor intensive and more efficient…
  • 26. PROCESSING THE CAPPINGS • Possibly your biggest bottleneck! • Hobby Beekeeper (< 5 hives) • Build your own solar wax melter! (< $50) • Larger Hobby / Sideliner • Walter T. Kelley’s Capping Melter / Separator ($600) • Maxant Jr. Capping Spinner ($1500) Steve Tilman’s Solar Wax Melter - http://www.michiganbees.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Solar-Wax-Melter_20100727.pdf
  • 27. PROCESSING THE HONEY • Our current process: • screen strain immediately out of the extractor to remove larger debris. • immediately filter with a 400 or 600 micron filter while still warm from the hive (sold as raw unheated honey) • Remaining honey is put into 50 gallon buckets and warmed / filtered (400 micron) bottled as needed.
  • 29. DECRYSTALLIZING HONEY • For the hobby beekeeper: • put honey container in a pan of water on stove with burner on low for several hours. • dashboard of vehicle parked in the sunshine? • Siderliner: • for buckets use a round pail heater to liquify overnight ($110) • Similar (but larger) heating bands can be used for honey stored in drums.
  • 30. BOTTLING HONEY • For the hobby beekeeper • Use a 5 gallon bucket with a gate on the bottom. ($15) • For the sideline beekeeper: • We use a 16 gallon Maxant bottling tank.
  • 31. ANOTHER CONSIDERATION: CREAMED HONEY • Easy to make, and honey customers love it! (Google for recipes). • Lessons we learned the hard way: • Use a high quality drill (1/2 inch w/ 10.5 amps or more) for mixing seed honey. ($140) • Purchase a stainless steel paint mixer attachment. ($50) • Mix in a stainless steel container to avoid plastic chips in your honey!! ($35)
  • 32. POST EXTRACTION CONSIDERATIONS • Prior to storing, place extracted “wet” supers outside at least 100 yards from your apiary to allow bees to clean them up. • Protect your stored supers against wax moth infestations (and mice). • Para-Moth crystals • Wrap / Shrinkwrap
  • 33. SOME CLOSING THOUGHTS • Don’t be afraid to experiment and find a process that works efficiently (and economically for you!) • Learn from your fellow beekeepers.
  • 34. ANY QUESTIONS? Jonathan Engelsma’s Contact Info: • email: jengelsma@gmail.com • web: http://hudsonvillehoney.com • twitter.com/honeyandcandles • Like us! /hudsonvillehoney • A copy of these slides are posted on: • http://slideshare.net/jonathanengelsma