1. EVALUATION OF
FINISHES
SUBMITTED TO :
MR. JANMAY SINGH HADA
PRESENTED BY :
ADHISHESH VERMA
AJAY SINGH CHAUHAN
AVISHEK
KUMAR SHANU
RIDDHI MALVIYA
SHYAMLEE SHREYA

2. Types of finishes we have
evaluated :
WATER REPELLENT AND WATER PROOF
SOIL RESISTENT
FLAME RESISTENT
CREASE RESISTENT
RESIN ( DURABLE PRESS)
SANFORIZATION

3. INTRODUCTION
Water
proof
Water
repellent
Treated with chemicals to give them a
property which makes them water
resistant.
Uses: raincoats, umbrellas, and tarpaulins.
It means water, if showered on the fabric
briefly, cannot make the fabric wet.
Uses: breathable fabrics.
1. WATER RESISTANT FINISH

4. Water
repellent
Non Durable:
Wax
Durable:
Fluoro
polymer
Water
proof
Durable:
Synthetic
Rubber/
Polymer like
polyurethane

5. COMPARISON

6. RAIN TEST
BREATHING
TEST
SPRAY TEST
T
E
S
T
I
N
G
As
specified
in JIS L
1092.

7. BEST
•100 pts
•90 pts
GOOD
•80 pts
•70 pts
•50 pts
WORST •0 pts

8. Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)
Water repellent Finishing Cost
i) Water repellent finishing Chemicals 3.2-4.5
ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40
iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50
iv) Steam 0.25-0.30
v) Electricity 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in CDR
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 0.66-0.70
iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenter
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 1.9-2.2
iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0
Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 7.20-8.10
Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale
trial for WATER REPELLENT Finishing

9. 2. SOIL RESISTANT FINISHES:
Permit relatively easy removal of soil.
Necessary in hydrophobic fiber.
Durable for 40 to 50 washes

10. EVALUATION:
OILY SOIL RELEASE TESTING
SOIL REDEPOSITION
MOISTURE TRANSPORT

11. OILY SOIL RELEASE TESTING:
It specifies all the parameters that strongly influence soil
release of oily soil.

12. SOIL REDEPOSITION:
The fabric to be tested are exposed to a soiling medium during
laundering with standard detergent.
The change in reflectance of the fabric before and after the
testing is an indication of redeposition potential of fabric.

13. MOISTURE TRANSPORT:
The procedure is used to determine the degree of
absorbency of fabric with soil release agents.

14. 3. FLAME RESISTENT FINISH
• The time in seconds for which a
fabric can withstand a standard fire
resistance test.
Flame-
resistance rating
• A flame resistant fabric is one whose
flame resistant rating is high i.e. above
150Flame-resistant
• Uniforms of firefighters, military
personnel, police officers, paramedics,
welders, some industrial workers;
Children’s sleepwear
USES:

15. TESTING
Vertical Strip
test
Testing for
thermoplastics
STANDARDS
Heat transfer
EN 367
Limited Flame
Spread
EN 532
EVALUATION OF F.R. FINISH :

16. The extent of charring is given by ‘char length’. This is the difference in
millimeters between the original specimen length and the undamaged
length of the specimen.
The duration of ‘after-flame’ i.e. the time in seconds that elapses between
the removal of the standard gas lighting flame and the flame extinction is
noted.
The time to travel between two markers 500 mm apart is observed (=t).
The rate of propagation is then given as (500 / t) x 60 mm / minute, where t
is in seconds.
The rate of propagation of the flame is measured in terms of the distance in
millimeters per minute that the base of flame travels up a strip 900 mm long
and 75 mm wide.
VERTICAL STRIP TEST

17. Three samples consisting of five
specimens each are tested. An item
is considered acceptable if
The average char length of the
five specimens that make up a
sample does not exceed 180 mm
TESTING CRITERION

18. Heat transfer EN 367
The incident heat flux is 80 kW/m².
The time (s) for the temperature to rise 24 +/- 0.2°C is
recorded. The mean result of three specimens is
calculated as the heat transfer index (HTI)
EN 367 measures the rate at which materials transmit
convective heat from one side of the material to the other

19. Levels Requirements:
B1 3 < HTI < 6 sec.
B2 7 < HTI < 12 sec.
B3 13 < HTI < 20 sec.
B4 21 < HTI < 30 sec.
B5 HTI > 31 sec.

20. Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)
Fire-Retardant Finishing Cost
i) Fire Retardant finishing Chemicals 4.4-5.0
ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40
iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50
iv) Steam NIL
v) Electricity 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in CDR
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 0.66-0.70
iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenter
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 1.9-2.2
iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0
Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 9.83-11.4
Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale
trial for Fire Retardant Finishing
Reference: J.T. M. R&D Dept.

21. 4. CREASE RESISTANT
FINISHES:
Purpose: To reduce annoying and
unsightly wrinkling in apparel.
Used in : blouses, shirts ,pants.
Applied: cotton rayon and flax

22. 1. TOOTAL TEST
2. THE SHIRLEY CREASE
RECOVERY TEST
3. VISUAL
COMPARISION
AGAINST STANDARDS
EVALUATION:

23. THE TOOTAL TEST:
•Test specimens are cut from the fabric.
•The specimen is folded over and creased by placing under a
strip of spring steel with a 500 g weight to supply the pressure
for creasing.
•After 5 min, the specimen is removed and suspended over a
wire and allowed for recovery for 3 min ,after which the
distance between the ends of the inverted ‘V’ is read from a
scale engraved on a mirror below the wire .
•To avoid touching of the specimen.

24. THE SHIRLEY CREASE RECOVERY TEST:
The instrument consists of a circular dial which carries the
clamp for holding the specimen.
Directly under the center of the dial is a knife edge and an
index line for measuring the recovery angle.
The Shirley crease recovery tester

25. VISUAL COMPARISION AGAINST STANDARDS:
•The fabric is creased in a random manner
•Assessed against either photographic standards or against
three dimensional replicas of creased fabrics.

26. Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)
Crease resistantFinishing Cost
i) Crease resistant finishing Chemicals 2.10-2.50
ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40
iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50
iv) Steam 0.25-0.30
v) Electricity 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in CDR
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 0.66-0.70
iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenter
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 1.9-2.2
iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0
Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 6.75-7.10
Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale
trial for CREASE RESISTANT Finishing :

27. 5. Resin Finish :-
Any Finish Which Is Treated By
Chemical Is Known As
“RESIN Finish”.

28. Method :-
PAD DRY CURE
At least 2 functional group i.e. hydroxyl group
and 2 Methylol groups react with cellulose
hydroxyl compounds in DMDHEU resin.

29. Wrinkle Free Fabrics :-

30. Durable Press Fabrics :-

31. Parameters To Estimate The Costing Of
Resin Finish :-
Type Of Material.
Chemical Used
Cloth Length
Chemical Cost
Labor Cost
Transportation Cost

32. Parameters To Evaluate The
Resin Finish :-
•Texture, Look,
Appearance, Drapeability
etc.Aesthetic
•Handling, Stability,
Strength
•Stiffness, Wear ability
etc.
Functional

33. 6. SANFORIZATION
• Process of treatment used for cotton
fabrics. Mostly used for textiles made
from natural or chemical fibers.Definition
• “To place the fabric on the extended
surface of a rubber blanket
represented by the concave surface ”.Mechanism
• Used mainly for denims
USES:

34. Standards for
Shrinkage of Sanforized
Labeled Woven Fabrics
Woven fabrics shall not
either shrink or gain in excess
of
1% in either the warpwise or
the weftwise direction when
subjected to the wash-test
method of the United States
Federal specification number
CCC-T-191A or ISO 675.
Standards for Shrinkage of
Sanfor-Knit Labeled Knit
Fabrics
Knit fabrics shall not either shrink
or gain in excess of 5% in either
the longitudinal or the cross
direction when subjected to the
wash-test AATCC 135-1987 or ISO
6330(60 degree, tumble dry).
STANDARDS

35. Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)
Sanforizing Cost
i) Sanforizing Chemicals 2.10-2.50
ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40
iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50
iv) Steam 0.25-0.30
v) Electricity 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in CDR
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 0.66-0.70
iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenter
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 1.9-2.2
iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0
Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 6.75-7.10
Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale
trial for SANFORIZING