jaquard erection and jacquard commissioning rupesh

Created By – Rizwan Rajik Qureshi

Project Report
On
Submitted by
Mr. Rupesh Dewangan
(Bachelor of Textile Science, III Year)
Under the Guidance of
Mrs. Snehal Rohadkar
A Dissertation Submitted to R.T.M. Nagpur University
In Partial Fulfilment of the Requirement
For the Award of Degree Of
BACHELOR OF TEXTILE SCIENCE
MAHALAXMI JAGDAMBA COLLAGE OF LIBRARY & INFORMATION SCEINCE
RASHTRASANT TUKDOJI MAHARAJ NAGPUR UNVIVERSITY,
NAGPUR.2018-2019
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This is Certify that the dissertation entitled
Is a record of dissertation work
Carried out by
Mr. Rupesh Dewangan
Submitted in the partial fulfilment of requirement
For the degree of Bachelor of Textile Science
Of R.T.M. Nagpur university.
MAHALAXMI JAGDAMBA COLLAGE OF LIBRARY & INFORMATION SCEINCE
RASHTRASANT TUKDOJI MAHARAJ NAGPUR UNVIVERSITY,
NAGPUR.2018-2019
Mrs. Snehal Rohadkar
Guide
Mrs. Janvi Nandanvar
Principal
Mrs. Meghna Polkat
Head of
Department
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Acknowledgement
With a sense of gratitude to god almighty for successfully this project. We wish to
express our sincere and heartfelt thanks to our beloved principal Shri.Janvi
Nandanvar of M.J. Collage.
First and foremost, I would like to thank my project guide prof. Snehal Rohadkar.
Whose valuable guidance, suggestions and constructive criticism has helped me
bring this project to its present form
I am grateful to prof. Meghna Polkat H.O.D of textile, M.J.College Nagpur for
their help, encouragement and other facilities extended while carrying out the
project.
Little room to write and so many people are there, I take this opportunity to
thank all faculty members and non-teaching staff members of M.J.College,
particularly from printing, textile physics departments for their kind cooperation
during the project work.
Project guide and reader weaving IIHT Champa, for the proper Guidance
and suggestion
We wish to express our heartfelt thanks to all those who have been inspiring
us directly and we shall remain indebted to all of them concerned, as we can’t spell
success without their help and suggestion
DATE: Mr. Rupesh Dewangan
B.T.S Final year
M.J. Collage Nagpur
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INDEX
SNO. PARTICULAR PAGE NO.
1. Introduction of jacquard 1 - 2
2. Principle part of the
jacquard machine
3 - 8
3. Size and figuring capacity of
jacquard
9
4. Types of jacquard 10 - 18
5. Harness bundling 19 - 20
6. System of harness
mounting
21 - 26
7. Types of harness tie or
design
27 - 35
8. Pattern card preparation 36 - 40
9. Jacquard cloth weaving 41 - 42
10. Data is related to jacquard
loom for harness
43
11. Conclusion 44
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[STUDY ON JACQUARD SHEDDING] Page 1
INTRODUCTION OF JACQUARD
Jacquard is a shedding device placed on the top of the loom to produce large
figure pattern by using very large number of warp threads, which are controlled
separately by means of harness cords, hooks and needles without heald shaft. It is
the finest of all machines for making the figure over fabrics and far superior in
capacity to dobby. Each hook in a jacquard represents a single heald.
The jacquard is a shedding apparatus used for selecting and lifting warp threads
for each pick. It produces large pattern in which all most all warp threads move
independently in a repeat of the design to reproduce in a fabric. The jacquard
weaving is characterised by the following distinctive features.
i. Sketching, designing, card cutting and lacing.
ii. Harness building
iii. Lifting griffes / knives and hooks
iv. Rotation of the card cylinder
A French weaver Joseph Marie Jacquard completed his first model in 1801,
which he exhibited at National Exhibition, Paris. The Jacquard machine is
essentially Falcon’s invention, invented to give direct, instead of an indirect action
and fixed similar position on the loom to VAUCANSON’S MACHINE. Further
inventors have endeavoured to increase the speed, reduce the cost of working and
render all parts reliable.
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Jacquard
JACQUARD TYPES
Jacquards as used in the Modern Textile Industry are numerous and varied but are
generally Classified into the following distinctive groups.
1. Single lift jacquard
2. Double lift single cylinder jacquard.
3. Double lift double cylinder jacquard
4. Jacquards for special use, namely, Cross border jacquard, Twilling or Damask
jacquard, Leno jacquard, Double shed jacquard, Compound Jacquard.
5. Jacquards of special types namely, Open shed jacquard, Electrical Jacquard,
Verdol jacquard, Fine pitch jacquard etc.
6. Electronic Jacquard.
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PRINCIPAL PARTS OF THE JACQUARD MACHINE
A Jacquard machine consists of three different parts namely: -
A. Engine
B. Harness
C. Mechanism, which connects the engine to loom.
A. ENGINE
1. NEEDLES: In figure A are needles. Single needle in a plan view is shown in The
needle is bent at A in fig horizontally out of straight line. The needles rest their
head in the needle board as shown in the and extending out side the needle
board about 4 mm. The rare part of the needle a ‘loop’ passes in the spring
box D. Eight different position of the distance bent portion will be required by
an 8 row machine. The top row has a bent portion nearer needle board C
bottom row has bent portion nearer to the spring box. These needles
constantly pushed towards cylinder by these springs.
2. SPRING BOX: In D is a spring box. The rear part or loop of the needle A is
passes in the Spring box D. A flat wire or pin Z to be inserted, which holds the
needle in position. One pin is required for each vertical row of the needles. A
brass spiral spring is securely held on one rear end (loop) and other end by the
pin inserted on the loop of the needle A. Pressing needle A will compress the
spiral spring and release the pressure at the head of the needle, will bring the
spring into natural position.
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3. NEEDLE BOARD: It is a wooden board perforated with holes corresponding
the number of needles and it serves as a guide for the needles to be presented
to the cylinder J.
4. HOOKS: In vertical wires B are turned over at the top to form hook for which
reason they are called hooks B of the jacquard machine. The top position of
the hook in its upright position is over GRIFFE or KNIFE E. The hook B can be
taken away from the Knife E if the needle A is pressed back. The hook B are
doubled at the base and turned upwards for about one third of its length. The
double ends of the needle are passed through narrow slot in the GRATE F. The
end of the double wire form hooks.
5. NECK CORDS: the bottom portion of the double wire hook B short but strong
cords known as Neck Cords G are looped and subsequently passed through
Tug – board H. Thus when hook B is raised the neck cord G is also lifted up.
6. GRIFFE: the Knife or Griffe E made a strong hoop iron and these horizontal
knives or Griffe bars contained in the iron frame called Griffe on head. The
Griffe is operated to raise or fall in a vertical plane. There are as many knives in
a jacquard as there are hooks in the short row. Every Knife E is fitted closed to
Hook B but is not allowed to press against them.
7. PATTERN CARDS (JACQUARD CARDS): One card with all holes of punched out
is shown in the Cards are laced together to form endless chain of pattern
cards. Circular holes are punched to correspond with warp threads that are
required to be raised for design purpose. The large holes at each end are “Peg
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A = DESIGN HOLE A
B = LACE HOLE C
C = PEG HOLES B
Holes”. Small holes at each corner of the guard are “lace holes”. Centre lace holes
are punched if the card length demands strengthening at the centre. Lace holes
are used for lacing the cards into a long continuous pattern chain. One card acts
for one pick only. Therefore as many cards are required to be cut as there are
number of picks in one repeat of the woven design. At the insertion of each pick,
a new card is presented to the needle board by the cylinder and card determines
which hooks are to be raised or lowered. By turning the card cylinder one-quarter
revolution as its moves away from the needles and succeeding card will be
brought in, for presentation to the needle board.
8. CARD CRADLE:
When large numbers of cards are to be worked on the machine, the
entire weight of cards will have to be borne by the jacquard machine. A long
endless chain of cards suspended above will obstruct the working and vision of
loom parts. It is also necessary to keep bulk cards in a convenient position so that
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the cylinder may take them up by the cylinder in a proper sequence. In order to
achieve all these functions, a card cradle is provided below the iron steel grinders
on which jacquard machine is mounted. Wires slightly longer than the length of
cards are attached to set cards at regular intervals say, 12, 16, 20 or 24 cards. A
card cradle consists of two-curved iron rods kept at a distance slightly in excess
length of cards. When the attached wire reaches these curved rods, the ends rest
on them, they’re by supporting cards.
B. HARNESS
1. HARNESS:
One line of harness with all attachments shown in the Neck cords are
threaded through Tug or Bottom Board. The Harness Cords C is connected to
Neck Cords B and separately through comber board. There are as many harness
lines attached to each Neck Cord as there are repeats in the width of the fabric
woven. Suppose if a repeat of design completes on 400 ends, if there are 2400
ends in the warp, it means 6 repeats in the width of the cloth. Each hooks of the
jacquard will therefore
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Harness
controls 6 harness lines and harness cords support the coupling, which consist of
a Top Coupling E Bottom Coupling G, Mail eye I and Lingo H.
1.COMBER BOARD:
Comber Boards are made of a close-grained seasoned wood. The object of
the Comber Board is to spread the harness cords uniformly. If the jacquard
machine contains 8 needles in the short row, there will be 8 holes in the short
row. There are two types of comber board.
i. Solid Comber Board – it is about 20 to 25 thick 150 mm vide and long enough to
occupy the width of the loom. Small holes are pierced through wood in rows.ii. 2.
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2. Slip Comber Board – It consist of small section of woods or stripes of wood
about 30 to 80 mm in width and about 8 to 10 mm thick. These small holes are
pierced with holes as in case of Solid Comber Board.
3. LINGO: A lingo or a lead is dead weight suspended from the end of the bottom
loop of the coupling to keep the harness pulled down when they are required not
to be raised. Its length varies from 16 cms. to 50 cms. For ordinary cotton goods
lingoes weigh about 45 to 65 per kg. Lingoes are covered with enamel or by
electroplating or galvanising to prevent rusting.
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SIZES AND FIGURING CAPACITY OF JACQUARD
It is customary to name a jacquard according to the number of needles it contains,
as a 100 or 400 jacquard but those needles intended for selvedge being omitted.
The usual sizes of jacquard are the following.
SIZE OF
THE
MACHINE
HOOKS PER
ROW
NO. OF
ROWS
NO. OF
HOOKS
NUMBER
OF
JACQUARD
100 26 4 104 100
200 51 4 204 200
200 26 8 208 200
300 51 6 306 300
300 38 8 304 300
300 26 12 312 300
400 51 8 408 400
500 51 10 510 500
600 51 12 612 600
800 51 (two sets) 8 816 800
900 77 12 924 900
900 51 + 26 12 924 900
1000 100 10 1000 1000
1200 51 (two sets) 12 1224 1200
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TYPES OF JACQUARD
1. SINGLE LIFT SINGLE CYLINDER JACQUARD
The single lift jacquard is simple in construction and is adopted for
weaving in handlooms. The single lift jacquard loom is built upon the principle of
bottom-closed shed and it is not suitable for high speeds. It is preferred in the
manufacturer of silk fabric as the beating up is done in a closed shed, an
arrangement that is essential for silk weaving as little damage is caused to yarn.
The machine is also suitable for leno weaving, as the shaking motion to enable the
crossing ends to cross it necessary.
CONSTRUCTION AND WORKING:
The arrangement of a row of hooks and needles, needle board and a spring-
box of a single lift jacquard is shown in the Fig The Needle Board C is a perforated
board through which Needles A pass. Each needle is bent around its respective
Hook B. At the back of each needle is placed a small, fine brass spring. These
springs are held in position in the Spring Box D.
The hooks are bent at the bottom placed Grate F. The bottom of the hook
rests on cords of twine are connected bottom of the hooks and passed through the
perforation of the Tug Board H. Short but strong cord of twine are connected
bottom of the hooks and passed through perforation of the tug-board H. The cords
are technically called tug cords or neck cords. The Grate F and the bottom board
are used to prevent the hooks from turning round.
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The eight Knives E close to the ends of the hooks are fastened together and
form Griffe E. The Griffe E is connected to the crankshaft through an eccentric
wheel to receive an up and down movement. A four-sided pattern cylinder J is
fixed rears the Needle Board C. The Cylinder is reciprocated and rotated by means
of suitable links with crankshaft.
In Fig shows Knives E at the lower end of their stroke. In this situation, the
perforated four-sided Cylinder J with the punched card is pressed against Needles
A. It may be noted here that the punches on the card are made on a separate
punching machine and depend upon the design to be woven. Needles A that are
opposite to the holes in the card enter there, there by causing the concerned Hooks
B to engage with the Knife E. Needles that are opposite to the blank spaces are
pushed back and the respective Hooks A are disengaged from Knifes E.
It is clear from the above that the Knives lift all the selected Hooks as they
move upward and leave behind all the unselected hooks at the lower level. It is
thus possible to lift any of the hooks in the Jacquard for any pick. When the
cylinder J is moved away from the needles, the hooks are forced back into their
original positions by small springs in the Spring Box D. In this type of jacquard the
bottom line of shed is fixed line and is retained by dead weight the jacquard the
Knives are not mounted in a perfectly vertical position but are slightly slanted. If
they were mounted vertically, they would hit the top of hooks while moving down
and could break or bend them. The slanted arrangement helps the Knives to push
the hook side ways fairly smoothly and move easily under them. The Knives E are
expected to move to a low enough position and be clearly away from the hooks. In
the Single lift jacquard, therefore, considerable dwell is maintained when shed is
closed.
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S
FIG . SINGLE LIFT SINGLE CYLINDER JACQUARD
A – NEEDLE
B – HOOKS
C – NEEDLE
BOARD
D – SPRING BOX
E – GRIFFE OR
KNIFE
F – GRATE
G – NECK CORD
H – TUG BOARD
J – CYLINDER
K – LATERN
Z - PIN
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2. DOUBLE LIFT SINGLE CYLINDER JACQUARD
CONSTRUCTION AND WORKING
A double lift single cylinder 400 hooks jacquard has 800 hooks and 400
needles. Each needle is bent around two hooks as shown in the Fig .
A, A1 are hooks and B, B1 are Griffes and C are needles. As each needle
controls two hooks, movement of the needle as bent at D affects them. E is the
Spring Box and F is the Needle Board. The Square Cylinder G is the Pattern
Cylinder. H is the slotted Grid and I is a double-ended hook. J is the Neck Cord
that connects each pair of hooks. The harness cord is tied to this neck cord. It will
be seen that the bottom needle is bent round at the back pair of hooks; the needle
next is bent round adjacent pair of hooks, and so on. Each needle has spring
attached to one end as in a Single Lift Jacquard.
A Double Lift Single Cylinder produces semi open shed in which bottom
line remains stationery, where as all the threads of top line come down mid-way, if
they are required to be lifted for next pick. A double throw crank fixed on the
bottom shaft usually actuates the Griffes, of a Double Lift Jacquard. From cranks,
two rods to two lifting levers, placed above the Griffes, convey the motion. The
motion of the Cylinder G is independent of the Griffes B and is derived from crank
or eccentric wheel on the loom shaft. When the Griffes are either on the top or
bottom centres, the cylinder should be nearer to the needles.
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This type of machine can run at speed 140 to 180 picks per
minute as compared to the 120 to 130 picks per minute of a Single Lift Jacquard.
DOUBLE LIFT SINGLE CYLINDER JACQARD
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3. DOUBLE LIFT DOUBLE CYLINDER JACQUARD
In a Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquards system, vibration of parts very
much reduced as two cylinders are working alternately and their speeds are
reduced to half of crankshaft speed.
Two cylinders work at opposite ends, with individual set of cards. The cards
used for the bottom cylinder are for odd picks, while those top cylinder are for
even picks. As the cylinder strike alternately to present the card with reduced
speed, selection of hooks achieved accurately and damage to cards is considerably
reduced. The drag on the pattern card is also reduced, especially when large sets of
harness are necessary, so the working of the machine is smooth. The loom can too
run at a relatively high speed.
CONSTRUCTION AND WORKING
The side view of the Double Lift Cylinder Jacquard is shown in the fig . The
arrangement of one couple row of both set of hooks, needles and cross section of
two cylinders is shown clearly.
A and B are hooks facing their respective cylinders. C is the upper set of
needles and C’ is the lower set. D and D’ are needle boards and E and E’ are the
spring boxes. The set of knives are controlling top set of needles shown as at H and
those controlling bottom set at H’. The top cylinder J operates hooks A that relate
to the even numbered picks. Like wise bottom cylinder J’ operates hooks B that are
intended for the odd numbered picks. Two adjacent hooks, one controlled by the
bottom cylinder and other by the top cylinder are connected together by the neck
cord. Each neck cord controls one warp thread in a repeat by means of harness.
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Similarly, the next shed is produced by means of the top set of cylinders,
needles, hooks and knife. The double lift double cylinder jacquards produce a semi
open shed.
The warp thread connected to the neck cord is raised by top hook. If it is
required to lift the same warp thread in the next shed too, the bottom hook of the
same neck cord has to be raised. In this case the top hook will come down and
bottom hook will go up. Both will meet up at centre.
DOUBLE LIFT DOUBLE CYLINDER JACQUARD
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4. OPEN SHED JACQUARD
In a conventional double lift jacquard, the neck cords and harness threads are
jerked when the weight is passing from one hook to another in each pair. Such
jerks cause breakage of neck cords and therefore too warp threads. This problem
can be overcome by adopting open shed principle in case of the ordinary double
lift single cylinder jacquard and double lift double cylinder jacquards. The
principle of Wilkinson’s Open shed jacquard is illustrated in Fig.
Hooks A and B are connected by a cord passing round roller C. Another
roller D, mounted below the roller C, is coupled by means of thin plate E. The cord
F passes round the bottom roller and is fastened at a fixed point G. The harness
cords are connected to the free end of cord F.
When one of the two hooks is lifted by say, six inches and other hook is at
the lower most position, the rollers C and D are lifted three inches vertically and as
one end of the cord F is fastened, the harness cord will be lifted six inches, i.e. the
same as the hook.
If it is required to keep the same warp thread up for the next pick, the upper
hook comes down and the other hook is taken up. The cord connected around the
upper roller simply slides on it and keeps the double roller unit; the harnesses cords
and warp threads stationery. On occasions when the hooks A and hooks B are
lifted alternatively the double rollers will be stationery and continuously hold up
the same warp threads. Each pair of hook in a double lift jacquard is connected to
these rollers. Therefore, the rollers must be thin in order to enable them to be
placed in the small space available in the jacquard machine. The arrangement of
double roller assembly in a double lift double cylinder jacquard is shown in Figure.
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OPEN SHED JACQUARD
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HARNESS BUILDING
HARNESS
The figuring harness includes all the connections below the neck cord to the
lingo consists of upper and lower couplings, mail eye, comber board and mounting
thread. The length of the mounting thread depends upon height of the jacquard. It
is generally 5’ in case of 40” wide loom and 9’ in case of 160” wide loom from the
mail eye to the hook. The harness, which is tied to the neck cord, passes through
comber board to the upper coupling and mail eye, then lower coupling and lingoe.
The harness cord should be strong and smooth to resist the friction of the comber
board and jerk of the working machine.
LINGOE: A lingoe is a cylindrical metallic dead weight with a flattened and
punched looped end to take lower position of the coupling. A lingoe varies in
length from 7” to 9” and in weight 4 to 60 per pound.
are made of brass – steel, galvanised iron or glass and contain three holes. The
central hole is reserved for a warp thread and two outer and small holes receive the
‘top’ and ‘bottom couplings’. The couplings vary in length from 6” to 9”. If the top
coupling and mounting thread are to be united above the comber board, the loop is
from 12½” to 16”.
COMBER BOARD: A comber board is made of wood and is perforated to hold
each mail eye exactly opposite the dent of the reed. The comber board may be
solid or stripes. A strip of a comber board consist of a piece of wood from ¾” to
1½” thick and long enough to reach across the loom and wide enough to take as
many holes as are required In one short row of hooks. Comber board composed of
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wooden strips from ¼” to 5/16” thick by from 1” to 3” broad and held together in a
grooved frame are mostly used.
The number of holes in one row from back to front equals the number of
needles in one vertical row of the jacquard, but it is not always compulsory. When
an end is passed through each mail eye, the number of holes in the comber board
must be equal to the number of ends in the reed. The comber board is fixed by
bracket ½” behind the slay, while the slay is at back centre.
HARNESS BUILDING
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SYSTEMS OF HARNESS MOUNTING
There are two methods or systems of harness mounting on jacquard looms
namely
i. Norwich system ii. London system
The former method however mostly commonly adopted in power looms. Harnesses
are mounted through perforation of slips in the comber board. If the comber board
is used finer than the harness, the extra row of holes is to be left empty.
NORWICH SYSTEM
With the Norwich system, the jacquard machine and card cylinders are
placed parallel to the comber board. The cards and cylinder operates either at the
front above the head of the weaver, or at the back of the loom over the warp. This
system is the most common in the cotton industry and best for ordinary work as the
harness is straight, but cards interfere with the light on the cloth and the warp. The
Norwich system of harness mounting is illustrated in Fig .
In the figure A shows tug or top board. B the comber board and C the
harness. The harness C is tied up to the first hooks each of rows from back to front.
Each harness is brought straight down and through the comber board B. the
number of rows of harness normally coincides with number of hooks.
The double lift jacquards are commonly used in power loom industry and
Norwich system of harness building is adopted in them. This jacquard has higher
speed and lesser friction of harness cords and produces semi-open shed, but has
more swinging of harness cord.
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FIG. – NORWICH TIE
A – TUG BOARD, B- COMBER BOARD
C- HARNESS D- NECK CORDS
B
C
A
D
1
8
8 1
1
8
1
8
D
A
C
B
FIG. – LONDON TIE
A – TUG BOARD, B- COMBER BOARD
C- HARNESS D- NECK CORDS
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LONDON SYSTEM
With the London system, the jacquard machine and card cylinder are placed
at right angle to the comber board, so that the cylinder and pattern cards fall over
either side of the loom. This system is convenient to a handloom weaver as he can
watch and control cards from his seat.
The disadvantage of this system is that the harness receives quarter twist in
passing from the hooks to and through the comber board causing more friction. But
the advantage is that the harness will have less swinging during working and so
last longer. The London system of harness mounting is illustrated in Fig.
A is the top or tug board, B is the bottom board or comber board and D are
neck cords. The harness cords or twines C have received partial or quarter twist
from the neck cords to the comber board.
The single lift jacquard is generally used in the handloom industry and the
London system of harness building is adopted in it. This jacquard produces a
‘bottom closed shedding’, which is most suitable for weaving gauge and leno in
handlooms and also in power looms.
RELATIVE MERITS AND DEMERITS OF TWO SYSTEMS.
i. In the straight tie there is no crossing of harness cords as such wear and tear of
the harness cords due to friction is less. Crosstie produces abrasion, which
reduces the life of the harness.
ii. Repairing and mounting of harness can be done more easily in case of straight
tie than cross tie.
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iii. In the straight tie, light is obstructed over the cloth or the warp sheet depending
upon whether the jacquard card is at the front or back of the loom.
iv. Straight tie is seldom used when a repeat represents hundreds or thousands of
picks, because long endless chain of cards will hang over the weaver’s head or
at the back of loom in case of single cylinder jacquard, In case of double
cylinder jacquard, it is usually not suitable to use straight tie because limited
space is available in weaver’s alley.
v. In case of cross tie, the weavers have sufficient free space in front or back of the
loom and both chain cards can be watched front of the loom in case of double
cylinder jacquard.
In general crosstie is more commonly used than straight tie.
Harness connected to hooks Harness pass through comber board
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HARNESS BUILDING WORK COMPLETED
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WARP THREADS ARE DRAWN THROUGH EYES OF
HARNESS – LOOM IS READY FOR WEAVING
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TYPES OF HARNESS TIES OR DESIGN TIES
Like various drafting system in the heald shaft, there are different tie-up
systems that are used in a jacquard system for different purposes. These are
i. Straight through tie
ii. Centred tie
iii. Border and middle tie
iv. Sectional Harness tie
v. Mixed tie
i. STRAIGHT THROUGH TIE
The harness of a straight – through pattern is mounted as shown in the fig.
This is a common tie-up method used for all kind of design, especially those that
contains several repeat across the cloth.
The numbers at A in the figure represents the hook in the jacquard to which
the neck cords are to be attached. Harness threads are connected from the neck
cords, through comber board, to the individual warp threads. The first hook
controls the first warp thread, the second hook controls second warp thread and so
on until 400th
warp thread. The hooks are connected
thus in a sequential manner to the warp threads. Harness branch are arranged
for other repeats and warp threads are connected similarly to the hooks. For
example if seven repeats are required across fabric, seven harnesses are connected
to each hook.
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8
1
400
0
A
B
1 8
393
400
8 8
8
400
0
400
400
0
1
393
1
FIG. – STRAIGHT THORUGH TIE
A - HOOK NUMBERS, B – HOOKS C – NECK CORDS
D- HARNESS CORDS E – COMBER BOARD
E
C
D
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ii. CENTRE TIE
This kind of tie is used when two halves of a diagram alike. In such case
only half number of hooks as the number of warp threads in a repeat is required.
Centre tie is used extensively for Damask, upholstery, carpet and silk weaving. The
technique of centre tie-up is illustrated in Fig.
The first 400 threads are connected exactly as for the straight through tie-up,
i.e. from the back to the front, one after another. At the 400th
end, the tie-up is
reversed, thread after thread until the first end is reached. The same effect is
obtained in a point or V-draft used in heald frames. Hence the size of the figure
produced is double the capacity of the jacquard. In common practice, the 400th
and
first ends are not repeated to obtain a pointed effect in the design.
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8
1
400
0
A
B
1 8
400
399 8 399
400
0
8
8
393
1
FIG. – CENTRE TIE OR POINTED TIE
2
393
C
D
E
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iii. BORDER AND MIDDLE TIE-UP
Fig. is shows the method of tying up the harness for a bordered fabric, such
as a saree, table cover, handkerchief, etc. In this kind of fabric, the design of the
borders should face inwards as shown.
The arrangement of hooks, numbered from 1 to 400 is shown at ‘A’. The tie-
up is begun at the left hand corner at the back of the comber board. 400 hooks are
divided into two groups, the first 200 of them are connected to the border warp
threads and the remaining 200 are connected to the body warp threads in a
sequential as shown in the Fig. The tie-up for the repeat of the body design is
carried out beginning from 201st
hook.
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8
1
200
0
A
B
1
200
393
400
208 208
200
400
0
8
400
0
201
1393
FIG. – BORDER & MIDDLE TIE
E
C
D
2018
201
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iv. SECTIONAL HARNESS TIE-UP
This kind of tie-up is used in jacquard weaving where more than one kind of
warp is used. In this system, the comber board is divided into two or more equal or
unequal parts as shown in Fig. Similarly, the hooks are divided into two-sections
such that they are in same proportion as warp threads of each kind. From each
section of hooks, the harness cords are passed through a separate longitudinal
section of the comber board and each kind of warp is drawn through harness mails
of the section allotted to it.
In this given example, the hooks are divided into two equal parts A and B.
The harness cords that are tied to hooks A are passed through the front longitudinal
section A of the comber board and control the even-numbered warp threads. The
harness threads tied to hooks B are passed through back section B of the comber
board and control odd numbered warp threads.
One half of the total number of needles thus governs the even numbered
ends. The holes corresponding to the lift of these ends are cut in one half of each
card. The other half needles governs odd numbered ends, the lift of these ends
being similarly controlled by appropriate holes cut in the other half of each card.
Sectional harness tie-up is adopted for convenience and also for reducing the
cost of designing for many classes of fabric, particularly double cloth. In
construction a design for a double cloth, the important work of combining the face
and back weaves is not required. Instead the cards can be punched independently
for the face pick and back picks
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A
B
B
A
A
B
FIG. NO. . 2.2.4 SECTIONAL HARNESS TIES
A & B – DIVIDED INTO TWO SECTIONS
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v. MIXED TIE-UPS
This tie-up is a combination of the straight through border and centre tie-up
methods. This system is employed for the purpose of enabling a certain portion of
the design to be introduced more or less frequently than another portion. The
principle of this kind of tie-up is illustrated in Fig. The first set of 160 hooks are
harnessed in a border tie manner, the next 80 hooks are harnessed in a straight tie-
up manner and remaining 160 hooks harnessed in a pointed manner.
1 161 161 241 241 161 161 1
8 160 240 240 400 399 240 240 160 8
COMBER BOARD
DESIGN
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PATTERN CARD PREPARATION
(PIANO CARD CUTTING MACHINE, CARD LACING)
PRELIMINARIES TO CARD CUTTING
First a design is drawn on a plain paper and repeated sufficient number of
times vertically and horizontally to see overall and general effect of the repeating
pattern. The design is then transferred and enlarged on a suitable graph paper. The
figures are then painted in some transparent colour to indicate the warp or weft. If
the colour indicate weft, then another colour is used to indicate binding points of
the warp figure. Before cutting cards, it is also to decide whether the fabric is to be
woven right or wrong side up. This is generally decided by the lift of threads
required for the design.
Before starting the card cutting, it is necessary to divide the graph paper by
heavy vertical lines into number of section according to number of hooks in the
short row. The bar on the design paper is a guide to the card cutter. This with 8
hooks in a short row of the jacquard, the design paper should be marked with
heavy lines after 8 small squares vertically. This is essential because the working
of all hooks in each short row is read at a time. Thus in a 400 machine with 8
hooks in each short row, 50 operation of punching are required to transfer working
of 400 ends from the graph paper to pattern card.
PIANO CARD CUTTING MACHINE
Piano card cutting machine is used for punching pattern cards for jacquards.
It consists of steel table with vertical wooden board on which design paper is
pinned or otherwise fixed for reading the design paper. Two straight scales are
made to slide over the board. These scales can be moved up and down by means of
handle so that any part of the design on the paper can be read accurately.
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PIANO CARD PUNCHING MACHINER
HEAD STOCK OF THE PIANO CARD PUNCHING MACHINE
A = HEADSTOCK B = SPINDLE
C = PUNCHES D = PEG HOLE PUNCH
E = NEEDLE HOLE KEYS ( 1-12)
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CARD CUTTING
The required keys are pushed over the punches and as an up-and-down
motion is given to the whole punch box by means of two treadles operated by the
card cutter’s feet; the punches that are locked will cut holes in the card. The
punches corresponding to keys that are not pressed do not move and the card is left
blank accordingly. A clip on the carriage clips the cards at the numbered end. This
carriage is moved back with the card exactly for a space of one row of holes when
the left hand treadle is pushed down.
PIANO CARD CUTTING MACHINE
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CARD PUNCHING
PUNCHED PATTERN CARDS
1- LACE HOLE, 2 – PEG HOLE & 3 – DESING HOLE
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CARD LACING
After punching the cards, they are laced together by using frame, which
contains 40 to 50 wooden or metal pegs on each side. The cards are placed in
rotation upon the pegs and lacing is threatened through lace holes with a needle.
For lacing cotton or linen single and folded yarn, tubular bands of cotton tapes can
be used.
PATTERN CARD LACING PROCESS – TO MAKE INTO A CONTINEOUS CHAIN
Now days, machines are also used for lacing cards. After the pattern cards
are laced, it is necessary to wire them for every 12 to 20 cards. The length of wire
should project form 1 to 2 inches beyond the width of cards so that wires can hold
the cards on the cradle. Fig. shows the lacing of pattern cards.
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JACQUARD CLOTH WEAVING
JACQUARD LOOM IS PREPARED AND READY FOR WEAVING
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WEAVING IS COMMENCED IN JACQUARD LOOM
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DATA IS RELATED TO JACQUARD LOOM FOR HARNESS BUILDING
 TYPES OF JACQUARD – SINGLE LIFT SINGLE CYLINDER JACQUARD (local
Jacquard)
 CAPACITY OF JACQARD - 240 HOOKS
 REED COUNT - 40 ST
 LONG ROWS - 8
 SHORT ROWS - 30
 FIGURING HOOKS - 28X 8 = 224 HOOKS ,
ONE ROW FOR SELVEDGE
 SIZE OF LOOM - 60 inhes
 NUMBER OF ENDS PER REPEAT OF THE DESIGN – 224
 TOTAL NO OF ENDS - [(8 𝑋 224) + (14𝑋8)]= 2016 (selvedge 2ply)
 NUMBER OF FULL REPEATS - 8 FULL REPEATS
 NEMBER OF HARNESS CORDS PER HOOK
– HOOK NO. 1 TO 224 = 8 HARNESS CORDS
-HOOK NO. 224 – 232 = 14 HARNESS CORDS
 MOTIF REPEATS ON WIDTH WAY - 8 repeat
 WIDTH OF CLOTH - 47.6 INCHES INCLUDING SELVEDGE
 DESIGN TIE UP - STRAIGHT TIE
 MOUNTING HARNESS - LONDON SYSTEM
 COUNT OF COMBER BOARD - 40
 COUNT OF WARP - 2/40
 COUNT OF WEFT - 10 S (2ply)
 WARP COLOUR - WHITE BLEACHED
 DENTING ORDER - 2 ends/dent
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CONCLUSION
 Project Jacquard allows weaving interactive textiles at scale.
 It’s a possibility that the current work will inspire research in new
forms of materials and integration of computation into the everyday
objects and environments.
 Brings the vision of invisible seamless computing one step closer to
the reality.
Interestingly, the Jacquard loom did not become immediately popular. In
fact, several French weavers had opposed it. It took some years to accept
this new machine. Although several improvements are made to the original
loom, it is in use even today for weaving several textiles for upholstery
fabrics. It is inevitable to conclude that the loom has revolutionised the
process of Jacquard weaving, especially with computerised attachment.
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REFERENCE
 1. Weaving – machines – mechanisms – management.
 2. Quality CBT and course material from NCUTE.
 3. InternetFile
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