a jewel par excellence of the Renaissance ...
a jewel purely decorative or with meaning religious or symbolic …
a jewel appreciated for its beauty, its artistic, symbolic and even magical value …
6. a jewel on a delicate chain across the forehead
called a ferronnière ...
Leonardo da Vinci or his Milanese circle.
Léonard de Vinci et son atelier
La Belle Ferronnière
La Belle Ferronnière
vers 1495 – 1499
Musée du Louvre, Paris
7. The title of the painting is due to an erroneous cataloguing in the French royal collection, when it was
mistaken for a portrait of Belle Ferronière, the mistress of King François I.
The misunderstanding was increased by the fact that the band on the forehead of the sitter was also
named "ferronière" in the 16th century.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12. an unknown lady in the role of Flora offering the viewer
a small bouquet of flowers with a self-assured gaze
traditionally considered a portrait of Lucrezia Borgia,
the scandal-ridden daughter of Pope Alexander VI ...
Bartolomeo Veneto
Idealized Portrait of a Courtesan as Flora
Portrait idéalisé d'une courtisane en Flore
1520-25
Städelsches Kunstinstitut, Frankfurt
13.
14.
15.
16. Cecilia Gallerani, the mistress of Ludovico Sforza ...
a fine gauze veil with a woven border of gold-wound threads
and
a black band
Leonard de Vinci
The Lady with an Ermine (Portrait of Cecilia Gallerani)
La dame à l’hermine
c.1490
Muzeum Narodowe w Krakowie, Kraków
17.
18.
19.
20.
21. net of gold threads on a base of gauze set with pearls
and
browband of red silk and decorated with golden agraffes and pearls
Giovanni Ambrogio de Predis
Ritratto di dama
Portrait of a Lady
Portrait d'une dame
1490
Biblioteca Ambrosiana, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, Milan
22.
23.
24.
25. a conspicuous display of Sforza wealth …
the portrait like the marriage commissioned by her future husband,
Maximilian I, the Holy Roman Emperor
Giovanni Ambrogio de Predis
Bianca Maria Sforza
Portrait de Blanche-Marie Sforza
1493
National Gallery of Art, Washington
26.
27.
28. a jewel in the shape of a scorpion, containing a precious stone …
it may refer to Scorpio, the astrological sign linked to fertility,
a good luck charm for the duchess, who was unable to have
children due to her husband’s sterility
Raphael
Portrait of Elisabetta Gonzaga
Portrait d'Elisabetta Gonzaga
1504-1505
Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence
34. an young men dressed in the fashion …
the hat badge depicts a winged ox, the symbol of Saint Luke,
reference to the young man's name, or to his affiliation with
a particular association or group
Bartolomeo Veneto
Portrait of a Man
Portrait d’un homme
1512
The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston
35.
36.
37. Giovanni Paolo I Sforza, a legitimized son of Ludovico il Moro,
duke of Milan …
a boat-neck cut shirt
and
a hat with badge ‘in the French fashion’
Bartolomeo Veneto
Portrait of a Gentleman
Portrait de gentilhomme
1520
National Gallery of Art, Washington
38.
39.
40. a burgundy headdress
a labyrinth reminiscent of that of Chartres
a brooch representing a shipwreck
and
a hand touching a sword, as if preparing for battle
Bartolomeo Veneto
Portrait of a Gentleman
Portrait de gentilhomme
1510-1515
The Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge
41.
42.
43.
44. Christophle le More (Christopher the Moor),
black archer at the court of the Habsburg emperor Charles V …
an badge of the Virgin on his cap, would be a souvenir from
a pilgrimage to Halle
Jan Mostaert
Portrait of an African Man
Portrait d'un Africain
1525-1530
Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, Amsterdam
45.
46.
47. a brooch with the image of Mary with the Child and the inscription around it:
O. MATER DEI.MEMENTO. MEI (O Mother of God, remember me)
Jan Mostaert
Portrait of a Man Putting On a Glove or Portrait of a courtier
Portrait d'un courtisan
1520
Muzeum Czartoryskich, Kraków
48.
49.
50.
51. a favourite of the King Henry VIII …
a Comptroller of the Royal Household
a Order of the Garter
and
a hat badge with a clock and geometrical instruments
Hans Holbein the Younger
Portrait of Sir Henry Guildford
Portrait de Sir henry Guidford
1527
Royal Collection, Windsor
52.
53.
54. a einsegne with a cameo bearing the design of a black woman …
(a reference to Southwell's participation in the final questioning
of the Thomas More; the subject of the cameo, a black moor,
reminiscent of Thomas More’s surname, at the time Moor)
Hans Holbein the Younger, Hans Holbein le Jeune
Portrait of Sir Richard Southwell
Portrait de Sir Richard Southwell
1536
Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence
55.
56.
57. a badge of the order of the golden fleece
and
a brooch with the royal emblem of Burgundy
between the doubled initial of his name
Bernard van Orley
Portrait of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor
Portrait de Charles Quint, Empereur
du Saint-Empire romain germanique
1515-1516
Szépművészeti Múzeum, Budapest
58.
59.
60. a Carnelian intaglio with the Virgin in adoration before the Child
Jean Clouet
Francis I of France, king of France
Portrait de François Ier, roi de France
1515
Musée Condé, Chantilly
66. an image of the cameo bust of Philip II. carved in alabaster
Alonso Sanchez Coello
Infanta Isabel Clara Eugenia and Magdalena Ruiz
L'Infante Isabel Clara Eugenia et Magdalena Ruiz
1585-1588
Museo del Prado, Madrid
67.
68.
69.
70. a cameo with the image of Faustina the Elder …
the devoted wife of the Emperor Antoninus Pius
and
the embodiment of the perfect spouse
Lorenzo Lotto
Marsilio Cassotti and his Wife Faustina
Marsilio Cassotti et son épouse Faustina
1523
Museo del Prado, Madrid
71.
72.
73. a cameo medallion ...
known as “Nero's Seal", a famous antique carnelian
(representing Apollo and Marsyas, which belonged to Lorenzo de'Medici)
Sandro Botticelli
Idealized Portrait of a Lady (Portrait of Simonetta Vespucci as Nymph)
Portrait idéalisé d'une dame (Portrait de Simonetta Vespucci en nymphe)
1480
Städelsches Kunstinstitut, Frankfurt
74.
75.
76. olga_oes
Ferronnière. Hat badge. Cameo.
An unusual jewel in painting
Ferronnière. L'insigne. Le camée
Un bijou insolite dans la peinture
images and text credit www.
Music The Piano Guys Pictures At An Exhibition (Piano Cello)
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77. Ferronnière
A ferronnière is a style of headband that encircles the wearer's forehead, usually with a small jewel
suspended in the centre.
The original form of the headband was worn in late fifteenth-century Italy, and was rechristened a
ferronnière at the time of its revival in the second quarter of the nineteenth century.
The ferronnière is often said to be named after a 1490s portrait attributed to the school of Leonardo da
Vinci, the La belle ferronnière, where the sitter wears such an ornament.
However, this painting's title was assigned in the 18th century, well after it was painted, under the
erroneous assumption that it portrayed Madame Le Féron, a reputed mistress of Francis I of France; or
another mistress who was allegedly an iron merchant's wife.
The literal translation of ferronnière in English is "ironmonger."
In their catalogue, the Louvre suggest that La belle ferronnière was so-called because of her forehead
ornament, a theory that is supported by other scholars, but other sources conclude that the ornament was
named after the painting, due to the term's specific application apparently not existing prior to the 19th
century.
78. Enseigne, Hat Badge
An enseigne was a sixteenth century badge displayed on a hat.
Badges that were symbolic and decorated by the wearer’s portrait, monogram, patron saint or other
mythological or Biblical imagery were referred to as enseigne.
They were elaborately enhanced with enamels, gemstones and cameos and set within floral filigree frames.
Usually loops along the edge or holes pierced through the medallion were used for sewing the badge onto a
cap.
Charles VIII of France wore this type of ornament wrought in gold on his cap while his men wore similar
badges in lesser metals.
The fashion spread throughout the European courts and from there to noblemen and those who emulated
them.
The enseigne remained in vogue until the late sixteenth century when aigrettes replaced them in popularity.
79. Cameo
Cameo jewelry can be traced as far back as the 3rd century BC. Cameos were very popular during the
Roman era, resurfaced during the Renaissance and then was once again popular in the 19th century.
The cameos have not always been decorative jewelry for women. In fact, at different points in history they
have been worn as frequently by men.
In ancient times people used cameos to depict an ethic or moral, or to make a statement about their faith or
loyalties. Early Greek and Roman carvings featured images of gods and goddesses, themes from mythology,
beautiful women and biblical events.
In the Hellenistic era young women used cameos as charms to express desire. A woman could wear a cameo
depicting a dancing Eros as a seductive invitation to love.
The technique has since enjoyed periodic revivals, notably in the early Renaissance, and again in the 18th
and 19th centuries.
The Neoclassical revival began in France with Napoleon's support of the glyptic arts, and even his
coronation crown was decorated with cameos.
In Britain, this revival first occurred during King George III's reign, and his granddaughter, Queen Victoria,
was a major proponent of the cameo trend, to the extent that they would become mass-produced by the
second half of the 19th century.